Spring Reading List: Fashion History and Clothing as Discourse

Posted on | March 10, 2010 | 23 Comments

We have received several reader comments asking for book recommendations on the history of fashion or fashion theory writings. We all have varying experiences with these topics, from working with writings on clothing, performativity, and self-representation in our gender and feminist studies readings to researching drag or the semiotics of clothing for course papers or our dissertation work. The spectrum is broad and the contributions to this domain vast. In response to your questions, we have compiled some of our favorite  readings on these topics in the bibliography below.

As always, please add any sources or reading recommendations of your own in the comments section of this post.

Bibliography

Arnold, Rebecca. “Fashion.” Feminist Visual Culture. Ed. Fiona Carson and Claire Pajaczkowska. New York: Routledge, 2001. 207-22.

Ash, Juliet. “The tie: presence and absence.” The Gendered Object. Ed. Pat Kirkham. New York: Manchester University Press, 1996. 162-171.

Barthes, Roland. The Fashion System. Trans. Matthew Ward and Richard Howard. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1983.

Boydell, Christine. “The training shoe: ‘pump up the power’” The Gendered Object. Ed. Pat Kirkham. New York: Manchester University Press, 1996. 121-132

Crane, Diane. Fashion and Its Social Agendas. Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press, 2000.

Davis, Fred. Fashion, Culture, and Identity. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press, 1992.

Hanson, Karen. “Dressing Down Dressing Up: The Philosophic Fear of Fashion.” Aesthetics in Feminist Perspective. Ed. Hilde Hein and Carolyn Korsmeyer. Bloomington: Indiana U. Press, 1993.

Hollander, Anne. Seeing through Clothes. NewYork: Viking Press, 1978.

Luck, Kate. “Trousers: feminism in nineteenth-century America.” The Gendered Object. Ed. Pat Kirkham. New York: Manchester University Press, 1996. 141-152.

Perrot, Philippe. Fashioning the Bourgeoisie. A History of Clothing in the Nineteenth Century. Trans. Richard Bienvenu. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1994.

Stern, Radu. Against Fashion: Clothing as Art, 1850-1930. Cambridge: MIT Press, 2004.

Summers, Leigh. Bound to Please: A History of the Victorian Corset. New York: Berg, 2001.

Wright, Lee. “The suit: a common bond or defeated purpose?” The Gendered Object. Ed. Pat Kirkham. New York: Manchester University Press, 1996. 153-161.

2 March 2010

Posted on | March 3, 2010 | 24 Comments

2 March 2010 – Cardi, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

• Cardi – TJMaxx
• Lace top worn backwards – Maurices
• Jeans – Filene’s Basement
• Boots – Dillards
• Bracelets – Big Lots
• Earrings – made by me

Endnotes:

The generous folk over at Maurices recently sent us a few gift cards, one of which we gave away to you a while back, and three which were for us to redeem for something of our choice. Not having a Maurices in Germany, I tucked away my gift card until my trip home, when I was finally able to go to their store and pick something out.

Until recently, I really wasn’t too familiar with Maurices, but I was really pleasantly surprised to walk into their store and find so many things that appealed to me: professional yet stylish blazers and jackets, many beautiful drapey cardigans, fun evening tops, and pretty accessories. Their prices are comparable to those of H&M, Forever 21, or Zara’s, and they carry everything from smalls to cute plus- size clothing. I chose a few tops and jackets to try on eventually narrowed it down to this green lacey top I got and this pink ruffled evening top, that would have also made a fun addition to my wardrobe. I chose the green lacey top because I think I can get more mileage out of it, particularly since it lends itself to being worn backwards (as I did here – with the lace in the front) or the intended way, with the lacey embellishment in the back.

2 March 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Lace detail, originally uploaded by academichic.

Before deciding to wholeheartedly recommend Maurices to you, I came home and did what any decent scholar would do – I researched the company I was about to endorse…

(more…)

Guest Post at Already Pretty

Posted on | February 26, 2010 | 5 Comments

Pen and Paper, originally uploaded by Kristian D..

We were recently asked to contribute to a discussion over on Sally McGraw’s wonderful site Already Pretty. Sally regularly receives questions regarding style and appearance in academia and she sent some of those reader enquiries our way. We were honored to be asked to add our two cents, and in true academic form, we met for a virtual ’roundtable’ to mull over the topics in question. If you’d like to engage in the discussion, please see our interview here, and please add you comments and thoughts on the matter. We welcome this continued discussion on identity, performance, gender, and academia.

25 February 2010 – Daily Drag Show?

Posted on | February 25, 2010 | 29 Comments

25 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Square Scarf from Echo, originally uploaded by academichic.

25 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

25 February 2010 – (No) Sense of Self

Posted on | February 25, 2010 | 10 Comments

25 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

• Gold scarf – gift
• Burgundy sweater – Calvin Klein
• Green cord skirt – thrifted
• Gray tights – drug store
• Burgundy pumps – vintage Etienne Aigner, thrifted

Endnotes:

Yesterday I had a meeting on campus that called for a semi-formal ensemble. It was one of those meetings where you can’t show up in jeans but is still casual enough that a suit would look like overkill. My attempt at semi-formal business ensemble resulted in this pairing of a burgundy sweater with a green cord tulip skirt, gray tights, and burgundy pumps. And, as a last nod to scarf month, I opted for a gold shawl wrapped à la Orchid Grey around my neck.

While a button down or trouser pants might be the more conventional approach to business-casual, I find this skirt and 3/4 sleeve sweater version to be more representative of me and my style as a whole. And since I wanted to feel at ease and confident, I chose something that would let me feel comfortable to the extent that I would not think about my clothes and just focus on my words. And this outfit did just that.

Shoes, originally uploaded by academichic.

Which is a nice lead into A’s question that she posted yesterday: How do we dress differently for different contexts or audiences? In her words: “How do different crowds of people, and your desire to connect with them, influence your style?” I noticed that without even trying, I automatically reached for a more conservative and professional outfit the moment I found myself back on campus and among professors and undergrads, in a subconscious yet undeniable attempt to align myself with the former group over the latter. While abroad and away from campus, I have been experimenting with cut-off shorts, wearing plenty of jeans, and often living in my hoodie. My living situation abroad has me staying with people a few years younger than myself and I find that I’m increasingly dressing as to “fit in” with this younger and trendier crowd. I like how that’s given me the freedom to experiment with new looks and styles and I kept thinking that I would want to bring that style back home with me, but now I’m wondering how well that translation of trends to my more professional persona on campus will work. While I aim to dress according to a personal sense of style and aesthetic, this oscillation between two cultures and lifestyles has shown me just how context-driven and malleable my performance of self is. S.

24 February 2010

Posted on | February 24, 2010 | 27 Comments

24 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

pink pattern on pink pattern!, originally uploaded by academichic.

24 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

19 February 2010 – In Search of Individuality

Posted on | February 19, 2010 | 20 Comments

19 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

• Scarf – vintage, from my grandmother’s closet
• Green top – ON, thrifted
• Blazer – J.Crew
• Black skinnies – thrifted
• Boots – Banana Republic

Endnotes:

First, some outfit remarks: This particular silk square scarf is actually from my grandmother’s collection. She decided that she doesn’t wear these kinds of bright colors anymore so she passed it down to me. It’s got a funny vintage carriage design on it with two carriage drivers in the center. This is not a design or motif that I would necessarily pick out for myself, but I realized that it doesn’t actually matter much what’s on the scarf as much as which colors are used for it. Once the scarf is folded, bunched, or tied, there’s often little more that a burst of color to be noticed. (See exhibit B here).

Today I pulled out this homage to 19th century transport because I really wanted that green edge to add to my green top + navy blazer combo. I tied the scarf using the ascot method and added black jeans and boots.

Scarf detail, originally uploaded by academichic.

Ok, now on to the recent discussion we’ve been having over here. I really enjoyed E’s distinction between style and fashion and would like to add, that like E, I tend to use both high fashion and street style photography as a launching point (rather than an exact blueprint) for my own outfit creations. I would like my style to be a blend of different influences and aesthetics, not necessarily identifiable as a certain ‘look’ or ‘trend’. This is one of the reason why thrifting appeals to me so much; so many of my thrifted finds are unique and different and when I put together a stellar ‘thrifted’ outfit, I feel most successful in having performed Style rather than Fashion.

Which brings me to the topic of thrifting – I had asked in my last post about the ways that I – or you – use clothing or style as a means of resistance. And several of you pointed to thrifting as a conscious act of resistance against conspicuous consumption, or, as reader Lisa put it, as “an obvious rejection of our throw-away society”. I was struck by this comment because thrifting used to be a need-based practice for me while growing up. My clothes came from thrift stores because that’s all we could afford. It was by no means a political act back then. But as my financial circumstances have changed, the motives behind my shopping second-hand have as well. Now I thrift because I love the search and the hunt, but also because I really believe in the political practice of reusing, recycling, repurposing, and making things last.

It’s funny how resisting during totalitarian regimes would mean sneaking in foreign goods, which usually reflected the latest trends and the most modern creations, while resisting capitalism has us reaching for the old and the discarded. While these may appear like completely disparate practices, I’m struck by the similarity in the objective of both practices: it seems like both acts are done in search of individuality and out of a desire to be unique. And that bring me back to where we started – the question of Style vs. Fashion. I believe the reason so many of us prefer the term style blogger over fashion blogger is because we perceive the first to be more about expressing individuality and creativity rather than just following the masses. And as history has shown us, no matter what the political context, there is a certain irresistibility to standing out and perceiving oneself as unique and contrary to the status-quo. I guess wanting to be unique is not so unique after all. S.

19 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

18 February 2010 – NonFashion

Posted on | February 19, 2010 | 26 Comments

18 February 2010 – NonFashion, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

On E.

• Moby Wrap
• Blue green pashmina – unknown origins
• Jeans – Target
• Gray sweater – F21
• Hollyhock gloves – Tulle
• Wedges – thrifted

On baby e.:

• Hat: gift from great aunt
• Onesie: thrifted (yes, baby e. thrifts too)
• Jeans: Carters

Sources:

Folks, this is a very unfashionable outfit. These are my “mom” jeans and my standby sweater. But, S.’s post on GDR chic yesterday prompted me to step outside and take a photo with baby e. while I contemplated the difference between “fashion” and “style.”

S. summarized the distinction as “external vs. internal forces of expression.” (This differentiation comes up regularly in style blogging, and Angie of You Look Fab and Sally of Already Pretty have had some wise words to share.) And it’s something I’ve been thinking about a lot over the past week as gorgeous images from NY Fashion Week have proliferated on blogs and in the NY Times Style & Fashion section.

Tricia, over at Bits and Bobbins has a recent thoughtful post regarding Fashion Week as an institution. And as I said in her comments, I tried really hard to be interested in NYFW this year. I really did. But somewhere in between information overload and washing another set of cloth diapers for baby e. my interest sort of petered away. It’s not that I necessarily think that Fashion Week epitomizes the effects of late capitalism ala Frederick Jameson — though the politics of commerce and consumption are certainly wrapped up in it — nor do I think that my own creativity somehow surpasses the thoughtful craftsmanship of those for whom clothing-making is a career. In fact, I very much appreciate those who synthesize the week for me and draw out interesting trends and highlights. But I do find that I treat even those images the same way that I do wardrobe_remix photographs: inspiration but not dictation, jumping off points not a finished product to emulate.

So on days like yesterday, when I am very, very unfashionable, I think I can still have style. Especially when purple gloves are involved. How do you understand the relationship between fashion and style? Do you consider yourself “fashionable” or “stylish” or both? What’s the difference to you?

18 February 2010 – NonFashion, originally uploaded by academichic.

18 February 2010 – NonFashion, originally uploaded by academichic.

P.S.  Even baby e. got to participate in scarf week a little bit!

18 February 2010 – Academichic on ‘GDR Chic’

Posted on | February 18, 2010 | 18 Comments

18 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

• Purple tank – BR Outlet
• Purple cardi – H&M
• Pendant – Anthropologie
• Jeans – thrifted
• Boots – thrifted
• Vintage scarf – Vintage Threadz on Etsy

Endnotes:

I have thus far used a scarf to add a pop of color to a monochromatic outfit, to create a monochromatic color scheme, and to forge an analogous connection, so it should only follow that I tackle a complimentary color scheme today. This little yellow scarf joins the purples of my tank and cardigan to make for a bold and bright complimentary color mix. I find smaller square scarves to be a bit of a challenge but this lightweight vintage piece adds the perfect dash of color to brighten up my neckline. A. once wore this same sunflower scarf around her tote, which is a great way to make use of those gorgeous diminutive scarves that can be somewhat of a challenge for every day wear.

Complimentaries, originally uploaded by academichic.

Now I want to digress a bit today and point out an interesting article from a day ago in the New York Times featuring German photographer Ute Mahler. Mahler worked as a fashion photographer for a magazine called Sibylle in the GDR (East Germany during the divide) and in this brief interview she sheds some light on the role of clothing and artistic expression under a totalitarian regime. Mahler also makes the poignant distinction between fashion and style – in brief: external vs. internal forces of expression – and how in a society that restricts the former, the latter will invariably still thrive.

I wanted to point this out because it addresses a role of clothing we sometimes overlook – clothing as a means to subvert, challenge, or resist. And I don’t mean to resist or challenge mainstream trends or dominant looks of a given era. I mean a resistance on a much grander scale that challenges and subverts political agendas or reigning ideologies.

This article got me thinking, do I use clothing to make a political statement? I know I consciously make statements about my career, age, marital status, and financial income with the way I present myself to others, but what other statements do I make? Am I ever consciously using clothing as a way to resist or challenge something I don’t believe in? No easy answers come to mind other than the somewhat humorous example of A. and I having cross-dressed for a ‘gender bender’ party that certainly had implications beyond just dressing up as the opposite sex and having a good time. While I don’t have an obvious or simple conclusion for this post, I thought it was worth bringing this topic to you if for no other reason than to acquaint you with a really talented photographer and artist. And I more than encourage and welcome your thoughts on the matter. S.

18 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Guest Lecture: Style and the Social Self

Posted on | January 18, 2010 | 22 Comments

Although I’m sure many a maven would strongly disagree with me, I believe that fashion is, to some extent, about fitting in. Yes, we choose our clothes, are drawn to items that reflect our personal taste or that flatter our bodies, and express our personalities through what we wear. But although we flex our creativity through our choices, we still dress within the bounds of social acceptability.  We don’t wear tiaras to the grocery store, we don’t wear pajamas to the office, we don’t wear bathing suits to school.  We may choose clothing that attracts attention and generates interest, but we want that attention and interest to be positive.  We want acceptance.  We dress – whether we’ll admit it or not – to fit in.

This can be taken to extremes in certain social, geographical, and career circles. E wrote recently about struggling with her style identity during her visit back home to Hawaii, where the local style is far more laid-back than the one she has cultivated during her years on the mainland. Super Kawaii Mama has written about the  astonishing pressure to be a “yummy mummy” within certain social circles in Australia. My readers told me in no uncertain terms that the “sexy secretary” look is NOT appropriate in most of their workplaces and that far more conservative garb is required.

Yummy Mummy, originally uploaded by Philip Campbell.

And many have said – both here at Academichic and on my blog – that the world of academia generally frowns upon stylish dressing and respects frumpy comfort. There’s the innocuous undercurrent of societal expectation that prevents us from dressing like clowns and fairy princesses every day, and then there’s the slightly more oppressive social pressure to look like your peers for the sake of THEIR emotional comfort. So how do we keep from getting pigeonholed? How can we walk the fine line between reliance on our clothing to create a cushion of acceptance between ourselves and the observing public, and wearing ONLY what our social, geographical, and career circles deem acceptable?

•       Amass pieces and tools that contribute to your preferred look, but deploy them in small enough amounts that it feels like your little secret. Wear one or two signature pieces at a time instead of going whole-hog. That way, you’ll feel connected to your personal style without calling loads of attention to yourself.

•       Learn to deflect biting comments by laughing with the commenter. ”Hahaha, I know! Isn’t this WILD?” Turn that initial discomfort into camaraderie. Yes, you may feel like you’re painting yourself as the Lunatic Fashion Maven for a while, but eventually people will warm up to your style and see it as a natural extension of your personality.

•       Talk to a select few people about why dressing this way is important, so that you have some supporters amongst the dissenters. Strength in numbers, you know.

•       Dress down Monday, Wednesday, and Friday and dress up Tuesday and Thursday. Gradually get your environment used to what appears to be an experiment until the time is ripe for full transition.

•       Try not to care as much what other think. I know, easier said than done.  But can you stomach the occasional sidelong glance or barely-concealed snicker if it means you get to dress exactly how you want every single day? Is it more important to be comfortable and accepted, or express yourself through dress?  Neither option is better, my friends, and your tolerance for scorn may vary from day to day. But bear in mind that no one in this wide world can tell you what to wear. And barring indecent exposure, dress code violation, or extreme discomfort, you CAN wear whatever you want whenever you want. For an ongoing source of dress-for-yourself inspiration, visit Audi over at Fashion for Nerds.

she dyed her hair some more… – _MG_0708, originally uploaded by sean dreilinger.

Many view behaviors done to “fit in” as horrible cop-outs, travesties of existential proportions that mar one’s very identity.  At least, that’s what my college friends used to preach. But the older I get, the more I realize there’s nothing dirty or shameful about wanting to fit in. Humans are social creatures, and we need one another.  We need reassurance and validation and acceptance, and that goes for everything from life philosophies to grooming habits.

But there are times when the need to fit in eclipses one’s ability to express personality and taste. That can get downright depressing and build vast reservoirs of resentment. Acceptance only goes so far when you have to go against your personal grain to secure it. So if you feel like you’ve been browbeaten into dressing a certain way, or are being prevented from dressing as you truly wish to, see if a gradual changeover could ease you into a happy medium. Take baby steps toward presenting the version of yourself that’s trapped inside and clamoring to get out, and see if you can’t bust out of that confining little pigeonhole.

Contextual

Three feminist PhD candidates at a Midwest university, on a crusade against the ill-fitting polyester suit of academic yore.

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