academichic

Changing academic fashion, one PhD at a time

4 March 2010

Posted on | March 4, 2010 | 11 Comments

4 March 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

  • Neckscape – BabyEtte on Etsy
  • Plaid button down – AE, thrifted
  • Navy cardi – H&M
  • Skinnies – thrifted
  • Boots – thrifted
  • Bag – thrifted
  • Cat – Louie

Endnotes:

Yesterday, A. shared some of her secrets for layering a cardigan over a button down shirt, answering a common question we’ve received lately. Since she’s already given some great advice on the matter, I have only a little to add to the topic: I layer cardigans over button downs often because both cardigans and button downs reside merrily and plentifully in my wardrobe and so they’re bound to meet frequently. I find that it’s easiest to leave the cardigan unbuttoned when the button down is of a heavier or bulkier material (as is the case here). When the button down is of a lightweight fabric and is close fitting, then buttoning the cardigan is easy and doesn’t result in any bunching.

When dealing with heavier layers that are best left loose and unbuttoned (as is the case today), I find that balancing out the bulkier top half with close fitting pants or skinny jeans makes for the best proportions. While a belted cardigan over button down creates that nice definition up top which works well with a fuller skirt, a loose and bulkier top layer necessitates more structure at the bottom. It’s that ‘pick one’ rule: have one loose and flowey element countered by one close-fitting and structured element. S.

Neckscape by BabyEtte, originally uploaded by academichic.

4 March 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

4 March 2010 – Layering Cardigans

Posted on | March 4, 2010 | 17 Comments

4 March 2010 – Layering Cardigans, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

  • Black nursing top: Target
  • Black ankle pants: Old Navy
  • Booties: Civico 10, via DSW
  • Purple sweater coat jacket thing: H&M
  • Magenta short sleeve cardigan: H&M
  • Open gray cardigan: TJ Maxx
  • Beaded black cardigan: Banana Republic
  • Purple cardigan: Gap Outlet

End Notes:

For my Cardigan Fashion 101 tutorial, I decided to tackle the still-elusive skill of layering cardigans. Way back in the fall I saw a little blurb on Style Bakery about layering cardis. And yes, it’s taken me this long to really work through this in my own closet. I started with a basic blank canvas of a black top, black pants, and (my new) booties (which I love) and decided that the most versatile outer cardigan I owned was this purple jacket-cardigan hybrid that has a substantial weave and a surprising degree of structure. Okay. So, what to layer underneath?

My first try is the picture above: a close-fitting magenta cardigan. It creates a nice analogous color scheme with the darker purple and functions almost like a little waistcoat might. Maybe cardigan layering isn’t as hard as I feared?

My next impulse was to try the old flowy-under-structure trick, so I threw on an open gray cardigan. I was not terribly excited by the results. I think the bottom layer was a bit too long. On the other hand, it created an unusual shape pairing, which I may embrace on a more adventurous day (and probably with full length pants to mitigate the endless torso issues).

Iteration 2: Floppy + Structured, originally uploaded by academichic.

I did like the color and texture pairing, however, so I tried tucking the cardigan into my pants and then blousing it. I liked this pairing: still some unexpected shapes, but with a bit more control. Though this might be a pain to readjust all day, it might be worth it.

Iteration 3: Controlled Flow, originally uploaded by academichic.

Next up, I put beaded cardigan beneath. I think there’s a nice contrast between the thick, rougher texture of the purple wool and the more delicate, subtle beading on the black cardigan. I wonder if it would more effective if I used a cardigan where the embellishments ran vertically down the front, thus giving them a bit more visibility. As it is, though, it worked as a surprising bit of sparkle for daytime wear.

Iteration 4: Grandma + Beading, originally uploaded by academichic.

Finally, I tried another close-fitting cardigan in a slightly lighter shade of purple. I like the v-neck of this cardigan, though I think the magenta cardi makes for a more interesting color scheme overall.

Iteration 5: Purple + Purple, originally uploaded by academichic.

The verdict? Layering cardigans can be as simple as thin-under-bulky, but surprising combinations can be crafted through some trial and error in front of the mirror. And once again, I wish I had a patterned cardigan to play with!

3 March 2010

Posted on | March 3, 2010 | 19 Comments

3 March 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

  • Ruffled cardigan: Ann Taylor
  • Leaf print top: H&M
  • Trousers: Banana Republic
  • Pumps: Madden Girl, via DSW
  • Belt: thrifted

End Notes:

Like A., I was inspired by S.’s cardi pattern mixing and wanted to try some of my own. Unfortunately, I don’t actually own a patterned cardigan. (And I’m taking suggestions for one to add to my wardrobe this spring.)

I have, however, recently acquired this putty colored ruffle front cardigan from an Ann Taylor clearance rack. Ruffled and embellished cardigans remain popular for spring* and in some ways they can function much like a subdued pattern might, adding just a bit of visual interest and texture. So while it might be tempting to let the ruffles take center stage, they also provide a friendly baby-step into pseudo-pattern mixing.

3 March 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Despite the constrained color palette, I like how punchy this combination ended up being: soft ruffles against graphic black and white leaves. (I did belt the cardigan with to give a little more shape and even out the proportions of my epically long torso. Plus, introducing one more texture — leather — seemed like a good idea.)

I had a bit of a dilemma over whether or not to tuck the leaf print top into my pants or not. One the one hand, I like the more relaxed feel of the untucked top, and it allowed more of the pattern to be visible. On the other hand, tucking it in makes for a longer leg line, which I enjoy.

Have you embraced embellished cardigans?** How do you wear yours?

3 March 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

* At least, so says my unofficial perusing of J Crew and Anthropologie, an admittedly limited style sample. But whatever.

** If you’re unsure, stay tuned for a DIY post in the next few days explaining how you can make your own embellished cardi on the cheap.

16 February 2010 – Spot the Scarf

Posted on | February 16, 2010 | 22 Comments

16 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

  • Scarf (as “top”): unknown origins
  • Black jacket: thrifted
  • Cream cotton skirt: Banana Republic Outlet
  • Tights: HUE, from TJ Maxx
  • Boots: Banana Republic

End Notes:

I don’t know what it is, exactly, but I am currently all about wearing this cream cotton skirt in the dead of winter. I can’t help it. It makes for such a dramatic silhouette and, really, with tights, socks, and boots it’s just as warm as a sheath or jersey dress would be.

I’m grounding the poof — per Archibald Maximillion’s influence — with a lined, structured jacket with a strong shoulder and low stance. I initially had no idea what top to wear under the jacket, but then I remembered that it was scarf week and I better figure out how to wear a scarf under the jacket.

Among the entries in our scarf tying bibliography was a tutorial from Belle Scarves on how to wear a square silk scarf as a halter top under a blazer. I am not wearing a square silk scarf, nor am I wearing it as a halter top. But I am playing off of the idea that a scarf can appear to be an entirely different piece of clothing altogether.

16 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

And so, I just wrapped a thin pashmina around my neck — trying to keep it as flat as possible and overlapping the ends to create the appearance of a draped or surplice neckline — and then hid the ends away, tucked into my slip (again, keeping the scarf as flat as possible to prevent bulk). Yes, it’s more surface spectacle tricks.

I’d really like to try this with a longish silk scarf, but my current scarf collection doesn’t really afford me that opportunity. Is that an excuse to do more scarf shopping? I think so.

16 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

12 February 2010 – Blank Canvas

Posted on | February 13, 2010 | 26 Comments

12 February 2010 – Sans Scarf, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

  • Black sweater dress: Target
  • Tights: Target
  • Boots: Steve Madden
  • Scarf: Chinatown NYC, gift from SIL

End Notes:

Every once in a while — usually in the winter — I have one of those mornings when my hips and I just can’t seem to get on the same page. Rather than moping, I’ve decided that the best response is to don a simple dress which, in its very shape — a slight a-line with no waist — renders the entire hip discussion moot. Rather than belting (as I am admittedly wont to do), I thought I’d play with what effect a scarf could have in terms of adding visual interest and playing with proportions.

I ended up trying three knots. Can you guess which one I stuck with for the day?

12 February 2010 – Scarf Draped, originally uploaded by academichic.

Knot 1: The Loop

This simple loop shows off just how lusciously thick this pashmina is. And the loose, unfussy look compliments the easiness of the dress.

12 February 2010 – Scarf Wrapped, originally uploaded by academichic.

Knot 2: The Loop Tied

Looped then tied in the front (with some initial twisting to combat the bulk of the scarf), this knot draws attention up to my face and shows off the pashmina’s beautiful pattern. As an added bonus, it breaks up the black on my top half with a kind of graphic clarity that keeps me from being a black blob. Go scarf.

12 February 2010 – Sneaky Knot, originally uploaded by academichic.

Knot 3: The Sneaky Knot:

This longer knot takes advantage of the scarf’s length and breaks up the black of the dress, even creating a kind of optical illusion of a cinch and flare. Plus, it looks more complicated than it is. Simply tie a knot on one side of your scarf, open up a loop of that knot, and then slip the other, shorter side of the scarf through.

So, which knot do you think I wore all day? Which one would you choose?

3 February 2010

Posted on | February 3, 2010 | 58 Comments

3 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

  • Scarf: Nepali by TDM Designs
  • Black sweater: Banana Republic
  • Black belt: Target
  • Plaid skirt: Harrod’s, hand me down from SIL
  • Boots: Banana Republic

End Notes:

I inherited this plaid skirt from my sister-in-law several years ago. It’s thick. It’s kind of an awkward length. And every year I wonder if I should give it away and every year I put it back on and think, “Gah! This is like wearing a blanket. A warm, cuddly blanket. How can I not wear it?” And so, even though it’s difficult to style — and one year I wore it to pass out Halloween candy as an Ellis Island immigrant woman — I have to admit that between the plaid, the fringe, the shape, and the super high waist it is a dramatic piece.

Or at least, that’s what we’ll say to be nice, right?

3 February 2010 -, originally uploaded by academichic.

Today I decided I might as well go whole hog and just keep layering on the drama with my scrunchy scarf from Nepali by TDM Designs. In my relatively simple wardrobe, this ruffled cashmere scarf is something of a decadent piece. I’ve used it to make a simple jersey dress romantic and to fancy up a black dress.

Frankly, I’m not sold on this look — should I be out herding sheep in Scotland? But at least the hyperbole of the ruched scarf, I think, makes things look more…purposeful? Or is this the path of the crazy professor with her blanket skirt and crazy neck thing? Perhaps this is the skirt’s last season in my closet after all…

3 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

29 January 2010

Posted on | January 29, 2010 | 14 Comments

29 January 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

  • Button down: husband’s, thrifted
  • Navy blazer: Banana Republic Factory Store
  • Sweater for warmth (hidden): Forever 21
  • Black skinnies: Old Navy
  • Necklace: Target
  • Black crinkled patent pumps: Steve Madden Girl, via DSW

End Notes:

If you squint your eyes just a bit you may be able to catch on that today I’m tipping my metaphorical hat to the inimitable archibald maximillion who, while not a style blogger per se, is a style demigoddess in the wardrobe_remix community over on Flickr. She started documenting her daily outfits (and I do mean daily) around the same time that we did, so we got to be wardrobe_remix newbies together.

Archibald Maximillion (henceforth referred to as “Archie,” since that’s what I call her in my head) has one of the most unique and Fabulous-with-a-capital-F personal styles I’ve ever seen. She mixes high end designer pieces with thrifted gems, creating looks that are always stunning. She plays blithely with proportions and textures, pairing items that I would have never, ever considered as possible partners.

archibaldmaximillion

At first I was frankly overwhelmed by Archie’s style. After all, I think it is unlikely that I will ever own a pale pink Trelise Cooper blouse with three huge bows running down the front, much less pair it with a green jacket and gold floral skirtand pull it off. Eventually, however, I realized that I could pull valuable style cues from Archie’s looks and translate that into my own more conservative wardrobe.

The biggest lesson I’ve learned is the art of taming the poofy. One of Archibald Maximillion’s signature moves is to wear a structured piece — a cropped jacket or a little vest — over a voluminous blouse or dress. And that’s what I’m trying to emulate today. Without the little blazer over it, my husband’s shirt looks rather ridiculous and shapeless on me. But, ah, with a bit of structure, things are contained without being stuffy.

(Except for the unrolled cuff. I apparently need to work on my cuffing skills.)

As these tributes have hopefully demonstrated, there’s a lot to be gained by following style bloggers whose styles may not necessarily reflect our own. It becomes personal in translation and it’s folks like Archibald Maximillion that first inspired me to think outside my comfortable style box and to take more risks — and as a result, have more fun! — with my closet.

Necklace Detail, originally uploaded by academichic.

29 January 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

27 January 2010

Posted on | January 27, 2010 | 18 Comments

27 January 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

  • Blue ombre scarf: Chinatown, NYC
  • Blue green sweater: The Limited
  • Cream wool skirt: Isaac Hazan, vintage, thrifted
  • Herringbone tights: HUE, from TJ Maxx
  • Pumps: AM, from DSW
  • Gray gloves: gift from MIL, from Ann Taylor Loft

End Notes:

Like S., I am paying tribute to Jessica Schroeder of What I Wore with today’s outfit. I’ve been following Jessica’s blog literally for years and it has been exciting to watch her come into her own professionally and personally as her style has evolved. While S. cites Jess’s penchant for skinny jeans, I’m giving a nod to another facet of her style.

whatiworejess

I love how Jessica wears skirts and dresses throughout the winter, adding scarves, playing with patterned and bright opaque tights, and donning gloves and little hats. Her penchant for vintage pieces frequently translates into sweet looks that have “lady” written all over them.

Vintage Flower Earrings, originally uploaded by academichic.

AM Ruffled Black Suede Pumps, originally uploaded by academichic.

I’m wearing a vintage cream wool pencil skirt — incidentally, Jessica was my initial inspiration for wearing winter white — with a simple blue-green sweater. My homage to What I Wore style comes with the soft blue scarf, long gray gloves, and herringbone tights. While my personal style may be different than Jess’s, I’m continually inspired by how she makes vintage and ladylike style an everyday possibility.

Patterned Tights, originally uploaded by academichic.


27 Janaury 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

27 January 2010

Posted on | January 27, 2010 | 26 Comments

27 January 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

  • White eyelet top – thrifted
  • Black skinny jeans – thrifted
  • Boots – Dillards
  • Earrings – gift from A.
  • Blue scarf – TJMaxx
  • Necklace – Anthropologie

Endnotes:

I can’t do this Tribute Week without acknowledging one of the style blogging biggies who not surprisingly was one of my first online fashion reads when I discovered style blogs: Jessica of What I Wore. She graces the majority of blogrolls and she truly cannot be overlooked. When I first came across her site a little over a year ago, I was drawn in for many of the same reasons stated in my Ode to Renee post: Jess was similarly gifted at composing amazing outfits made of mostly thrifted pieces and was also unapologetically unique in her approach to style. While she’s turned away some from the all-thrifted, all-vintage look that used to be her signature style, she’s still extremely creative and a great source of outfit inspiration.

So here is my Jess inspired tribute outfit of the day: a thrifted eyelet top with thrifted skinny jeans, a scarf, and boots. If you know Jess, you know she has a fabulous boot collection, mile long legs for wearing skinnies, a knack for wearing scarves, pins, or other fun accessories, and (this I suspect) a penchant for white eyelet. Maybe it’s because I’ve become quite infatuated with eyelet myself that I’m so aware of it in her wardrobe, but it’s definitely there…

jess collage 2

When I recently found this top in the thrift shop here, I loved the fabric and overall look of it but thought that it just had too much sleeve. I felt a bit like a mariachi singer in it. I bought it thinking that I would go home and alter the sleeves, cutting some fabric off and just making there be less of them. But after putting it on to take some ‘before‘ pictures that night, I temporarily changed my mind. And I figured that especially a Jess tribute post required that I leave them on since Jess rocks those unique thrifted pieces with such aplomb. She’s not afraid to don a wild pattern or outrageous shape and she somehow always pulls it off. So in honor of unapologetic decadence, I left the puffy eyelet sleeves on and wore this shirt in its unadulterated state.

So what do you think? Less sleeves or leave it be? S.

20 January 2010 – Running in Style

Posted on | January 20, 2010 | 21 Comments

20 January 2010 – Running in Style, originally uploaded by academichic.
Sources:
  • W’s Infinity Knicker – Pearl Izumi
  • W’s Barrier Short Sleeve Baselayer – Pearl Izumi
  • W’s ELITE Barrier WxB Jacket – Pearl Izumi
  • W’s Streak Shoses – Pearl Izumi
Endnotes:
As many of you know, S. and I are runners.  It took us both a while to feel confident enough to claim such a title – “runner.”  For me, a lot of this had to do with not looking like a runner.  I was running more days than not, calling six miles a short run, and had finished my first marathon before I could without hesitation introduce myself as a runner.  I’ve felt like a runner for years now, but in this Pearl Izumi outfit, I think I look like a runner too!
Pearl Izumi Blue, originally uploaded by academichic.
I’ve never cared too much about what running gear looked like – function over form was always my motto.  When S. and I started training together, perhaps not surprisingly, we started thinking about the aesthetics of running clothes.   Before too long we were wearing matching shorts and tops for our races.
S. and A. Half Marathon, originally uploaded by academichic.
I noticed during our color challenges last year that I owned a rainbow of running shorts and tops, even if my regular wardrobe tends to be filled with more neutrals.
Running Rainbow, originally uploaded by academichic.
I think the argument of function over form has often left me free to sport brighter colors – like electric blue shoes or this bold red, black, and silver zip jacket, both from Pearl Izumi. I love the jacket first and foremost for it’s functionality.  It’s the prefect running rain gear – waterproof but also breathable – and it makes a good cold-weather top layer too, because it’s lightweight, but blocks the wind.  For a my run in what feels like a heat wave of 40 degrees, I layered the jacket over what looks like a simple black tee, but is the most comfortable base layer ever!
Pearl Izumi Jacket, originally uploaded by academichic.
I then pulled on these new 3/4 length tights (or Knickers as Pearl Izumi calls them).  I have always been to0 self conscious to wear tights with out shorts over them, but the well-placed seams and the length of these have converted me.  These are now by-far my favorite running bottom – a glorious meeting of form and function!  Speaking of function, both the jacket and the tights have small pockets in the back which are perfect for the cell phone, car key, and even a snack.

What do you prefer to run or exercise in?  Have you found your perfect mix of form and function?

Pearl Izumi Pockets, originally uploaded by academichic.
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Three feminist PhD candidates at a Midwest university, on a crusade against the ill-fitting polyester suit of academic yore.

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