8 March 2010 – Tight Swap

Posted on | March 8, 2010 | 18 Comments

8 March 2010 – Tight Swap, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

Navy dress: Target
Earrings: Honolulu swap meet
Booties: Civico 10, via DSW

Blue green tights: Hue
Dark red tights: Hue
Purple tights: Target
Yellow tights: Gap
Patterned tights: Celeste Stein

End Notes:

This week we’re exploring methodologies behind thoughtful tights usage, and for my tutorial I thought I’d demonstrate how dramatically tights can change an entire outfit.

I started with a simple dress in a soft neutral — navy — as my base, paired with my booties (or are they heeled oxfords?) which are a wonderfully indeterminate neutral somewhere between brown and gray. First up, blue green tights to create a monochromatic color scheme. The result is a trim, lean appearance, with dress, tights, and shoes all blending together for an illusion of length. It’s a sophisticated pairing that keeps the attention primarily on the dress.

Maroon tights were up next. I love how this deep, dark red adds richness to the navy blue, creating what we call a two-thirds color combination, that is, two colors — red and blue — from a triad. Because both pieces are darker shades of primary hues, they avoid looking like a cartoon or sports team pairing. While still sophisticated and slimming overall because of their relatively well-matched darkness to the dress, the maroon tights add a bit more pizazz to the look.

…

Bright purple tights create an analogous color combination with the dress. But, because the purple is lighter and more saturated than the navy, they “pop” more dramatically than the maroon tights did. As such, they give the dress a freshness that the other two tights-and-dress combinations did not have.

…

Ah yes, bright yellow tights. Or saffron, I suppose, if we’re getting technical. Like the maroon tights, this punchy pair creates a two-thirds color combination with the dark blue dress. But unlike the maroon tights, this yellow is a much lighter and more saturated shade, and they become the focal point of the outfit. As such, they transform a basic navy dress into a bold, lively “look.”

…

And then…patterned tights. After learning that this week was tights week, my sweet mother-in-law sent me this pair of swirly pink, navy, pale blue, orange, and red patterned tights. (She snagged them on clearance at Dillards; there’s a much better selection in stores than online, as is the case for stores like Gap and Banana Republic right now, I’ve found. Online, I’m drooling over some pairs of patterned tights in Anthropologie’s clearance: the Locket tights are marked down to just under $7, for example, and I would spring for the lace tights as well. And Bare Necessities has quite a few fabulous prints and textures on sale now as well.)

…

My husband isn’t sure what to think, but I’ve grown rather attached. Despite the admittedly wild overall print, the navy background of the tights helps to ground their connection to the dress. Sure, they’re a little wacky, but with these retro-inspired shoes and a curvy dress they add some spunk rather than scream “certifiably crazy”! I’d also be interested to try these tights on with this dress and my Steve Madden boots, thus mitigating the effect of the overall pattern going wobbly on my calves and ankles.

…

I like all of these combinations for different reasons and can see myself wearing each for particular occasions. I probably would not, for example, wear the saffron and navy combination to an academic conference, but I would wear it to a party or, let’s be honest, for a slow day in the library. Do you tend to use tights to add a pop of color or pattern to an outfit or to create an unbroken leg line? How do you decide what color to pull on?

4 March 2010

Posted on | March 4, 2010 | 11 Comments

4 March 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

Neckscape – BabyEtte on Etsy
Plaid button down – AE, thrifted
Navy cardi – H&M
Skinnies – thrifted
Boots – thrifted
Bag – thrifted
Cat – Louie

Endnotes:

Yesterday, A. shared some of her secrets for layering a cardigan over a button down shirt, answering a common question we’ve received lately. Since she’s already given some great advice on the matter, I have only a little to add to the topic: I layer cardigans over button downs often because both cardigans and button downs reside merrily and plentifully in my wardrobe and so they’re bound to meet frequently. I find that it’s easiest to leave the cardigan unbuttoned when the button down is of a heavier or bulkier material (as is the case here). When the button down is of a lightweight fabric and is close fitting, then buttoning the cardigan is easy and doesn’t result in any bunching.

When dealing with heavier layers that are best left loose and unbuttoned (as is the case today), I find that balancing out the bulkier top half with close fitting pants or skinny jeans makes for the best proportions. While a belted cardigan over button down creates that nice definition up top which works well with a fuller skirt, a loose and bulkier top layer necessitates more structure at the bottom. It’s that ‘pick one’ rule: have one loose and flowey element countered by one close-fitting and structured element. S.

Neckscape by BabyEtte, originally uploaded by academichic.

4 March 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

4 March 2010 – Layering Cardigans

Posted on | March 4, 2010 | 17 Comments

4 March 2010 – Layering Cardigans, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

Black nursing top: Target
Black ankle pants: Old Navy
Booties: Civico 10, via DSW
Purple sweater coat jacket thing: H&M

Magenta short sleeve cardigan: H&M
Open gray cardigan: TJ Maxx
Beaded black cardigan: Banana Republic
Purple cardigan: Gap Outlet

End Notes:

For my Cardigan Fashion 101 tutorial, I decided to tackle the still-elusive skill of layering cardigans. Way back in the fall I saw a little blurb on Style Bakery about layering cardis. And yes, it’s taken me this long to really work through this in my own closet. I started with a basic blank canvas of a black top, black pants, and (my new) booties (which I love) and decided that the most versatile outer cardigan I owned was this purple jacket-cardigan hybrid that has a substantial weave and a surprising degree of structure. Okay. So, what to layer underneath?

My first try is the picture above: a close-fitting magenta cardigan. It creates a nice analogous color scheme with the darker purple and functions almost like a little waistcoat might. Maybe cardigan layering isn’t as hard as I feared?

My next impulse was to try the old flowy-under-structure trick, so I threw on an open gray cardigan. I was not terribly excited by the results. I think the bottom layer was a bit too long. On the other hand, it created an unusual shape pairing, which I may embrace on a more adventurous day (and probably with full length pants to mitigate the endless torso issues).

Iteration 2: Floppy + Structured, originally uploaded by academichic.

I did like the color and texture pairing, however, so I tried tucking the cardigan into my pants and then blousing it. I liked this pairing: still some unexpected shapes, but with a bit more control. Though this might be a pain to readjust all day, it might be worth it.

Iteration 3: Controlled Flow, originally uploaded by academichic.

Next up, I put beaded cardigan beneath. I think there’s a nice contrast between the thick, rougher texture of the purple wool and the more delicate, subtle beading on the black cardigan. I wonder if it would more effective if I used a cardigan where the embellishments ran vertically down the front, thus giving them a bit more visibility. As it is, though, it worked as a surprising bit of sparkle for daytime wear.

Iteration 4: Grandma + Beading, originally uploaded by academichic.

Finally, I tried another close-fitting cardigan in a slightly lighter shade of purple. I like the v-neck of this cardigan, though I think the magenta cardi makes for a more interesting color scheme overall.

Iteration 5: Purple + Purple, originally uploaded by academichic.

The verdict? Layering cardigans can be as simple as thin-under-bulky, but surprising combinations can be crafted through some trial and error in front of the mirror. And once again, I wish I had a patterned cardigan to play with!

3 March 2009

Posted on | March 4, 2010 | 6 Comments

3 March 2009, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

Grey Open Cardigan – Pretty Good, from Marshalls
Green Sweater – Banana Republic
Brown Corduroy Skirt – Old NAvy
Beads – Limited
Tights – BR Outlet
Maroon Wedges- Anthropologie, via ebay

Endnotes:

I loved the simplicity of today’s outfit and remained comfortable and at ease sin it all day. It’s not often that I wear such a flowy and open piece with out belting it, but I have found that this cardigan works well with a structured straight skirt with a visible waistline.

17 July 2009 – Playing Catch Up, originally uploaded by academichic.

Today I layered the short sleeved cardigan over a longer sleeved sweater and was quite pleased with the color block effect on my arms.

Cardigan Detail, originally uploaded by academichic.

I’ll also say something about tights here, since the weather may not cooperate with tights week (not that I am complaining by any means!!). Reader DJ asked how I managed to wear my denim skirt over tights with out the skirt riding up. I often layer my denim and corduroy over tights and I never wear a slip. Unfortunately, my only advice is to test it out. I have found that some tights/skirt combinations work well, while others don’t at all. These grey tights seem to work under everything and I think it is their medium texture – that is, they are not too smooth and shiny but also are not as textured as say my sweater tights.

2 March 2010

Posted on | March 3, 2010 | 24 Comments

2 March 2010 – Cardi, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

Cardi – TJMaxx
Lace top worn backwards – Maurices
Jeans – Filene’s Basement
Boots – Dillards
Bracelets – Big Lots
Earrings – made by me

Endnotes:

The generous folk over at Maurices recently sent us a few gift cards, one of which we gave away to you a while back, and three which were for us to redeem for something of our choice. Not having a Maurices in Germany, I tucked away my gift card until my trip home, when I was finally able to go to their store and pick something out.

Until recently, I really wasn’t too familiar with Maurices, but I was really pleasantly surprised to walk into their store and find so many things that appealed to me: professional yet stylish blazers and jackets, many beautiful drapey cardigans, fun evening tops, and pretty accessories. Their prices are comparable to those of H&M, Forever 21, or Zara’s, and they carry everything from smalls to cute plus- size clothing. I chose a few tops and jackets to try on eventually narrowed it down to this green lacey top I got and this pink ruffled evening top, that would have also made a fun addition to my wardrobe. I chose the green lacey top because I think I can get more mileage out of it, particularly since it lends itself to being worn backwards (as I did here – with the lace in the front) or the intended way, with the lacey embellishment in the back.

2 March 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Lace detail, originally uploaded by academichic.

Before deciding to wholeheartedly recommend Maurices to you, I came home and did what any decent scholar would do – I researched the company I was about to endorse…

(more…)

2 March 2010

Posted on | March 2, 2010 | 10 Comments

2 March 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

Striped Cardigan – J Crew
Plaid Shirt – Gap
Skirt – Old Navy
Grey Tights – BR Outlet
Wellies – Banana Republic
Belt – Thrifted
Earrings – Gift

Endnotes:

I was inspired by S.’s pattern mixing from yesterday to do a little of my own. I don’t own many patterned cardigans (mostly stripes) so I started with the cardigan and then went to my closet full of patterned plaid, striped, and floral button downs. I tend to be a bit more timid with my pattern mixing that either S. or E. so I stuck with a simple color palette of grey black and bright blue. I love the subtle small stripes against the bold large buffalo plaid.

Stripes on Plaid, originally uploaded by academichic.

Reader Kaite asked for advice on layering a cardigan over a button down. I have sported this look many times so I thought I would share some of my observations.

For today’s outfit, I chose a long loose cardigan and left it un-buttoned; buttoned-up it created to many lumps. I added the belt under the cardigan to remind you of the waist under all the loose layers.

The easiest cardigan/button-down combination is a sturdy cardigan layered over a close-fitting sleeveless button-down. I often wear my sleeveless white button-down under a variety of layers, including cardigans. Similarly, a sturdy sleeveless cardigan (sweater vest) will work well over a long sleeve button-down, this avoids arm lumps.

I have found that two types of cardigans work well for layering. First, larger cardigans that flow away from the body won’t look ton bulky, because you will be able to see that the bulk clearly comes from the cardigan and not your body. Today is a good example of this – of course when in doubt, belt!

Second, a sturdy material or a tightly woven sweater will work much better than cardigans that hold less of a shape. When the cardigan is thick and sturdy you can smooth out any lumps underneath. Whit these sweaters, you can belt over all of you layers, as I did with my argyle and light pink cardigans below. If the cardigan is less sturdy, leave it unbuttoned so that it floats away from the button-down, as I did with the black cardigan above and the purple one below.

As with everything, try different combinations on! A cardigan might work really well over some button-downs but not at all over others. Try belting both over and under the cardigan and try it out both buttoned and un-bottoned. If you really want to layer a cardigan over a button down and can’t seem to get rid of the bumps, you can always but a tight fighting cami in between the button down and cardigan to smooth everything out.

Do you have any tips you can share? A.

2 March 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

1 March 2010

Posted on | March 1, 2010 | 15 Comments

1 March 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

Teal cardigan: Anthropologie, gift from MIL
Green jersey dress: Gap Outlet
Brown tights: HUE
Oxford booties: Civico10, via DSW

End Notes:

I’m starting off our week of Cardigan Fashion 101 with a non-standard cardigan: this floaty, drapey number in a gorgeous color that was a gift from my mother-in-law. It’s actually a fairly versatile piece as those long dangling bits can be tied in the front, back, or even behind the neck to create different shapes.

But today I’m using it to share one of my favorite uses for longer length (i.e. over the hip) cardigans: wearing it over a dress. I don’t think there’s a magic ratio of cardigan to dress that makes this combination work, but there should be enough of a difference between hemlines so that it looks intentional rather than sloppy. The benefits of this pairing are manifold.

First, there’s the obvious warmth-adding factor:

Second, a longer cardi over a patterned dress can help control a bold print.

Third, it gives you something to do with those very long cardigans that can sometimes look like bathrobes when worn over jeans.

Fourth — and my favorite — by belting the cardigan in place with a gap between the edges you can create a long visual line that is oh so slimming.

1 March 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Perhaps because the longer cardi is a trendier shape, it also keeps the dress + cardigan combination — which admittedly has the potential to veer into stodgy territory — feeling a bit more modern. Especially when it’s in a fun color. Thanks, mom-in-law!

How do you wear your longer cardigans? Do you have a rule of thumb for layering them over dresses or top+skirt pairings?

28 February 2010

Posted on | February 28, 2010 | 11 Comments

28 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

Scarf – courtesy of echo
Brown tank – Old Navy
Cardi – J.Jill
Brown cords – Ann Taylor Loft
Boots – Dillards
Yellow bag – vintage, garage sale find

Endnotes:

For a last nod to our scarf month, I’m excited to showcase my new Echo scarf that I received courtesy of Echo Design. A. and E. already showed off their beautiful new Echo scarves, wearing them as a belt and as an Ascot tie respectively. I tied mine in the European knot and wore it loosely as a pop of silvery-blue with this brown and chartreuse outfit. I love how light and breezy it is and how the slight crinkled effect and unfinished edges gives it a casual and worn-in look.

Echo scarf, originally uploaded by academichic.

Echo Design generously sent us a last scarf for a reader giveaway, which we will offer in a last scarf month giveaway post this coming week, so stay tuned for that! We also have new themes coming for the month of March, more Fashion 101s, and more DIY posts, so check back tomorrow to find out what’s to come in the new month. Meanwhile, I hope you’re enjoying the weekend and having a great Sunday. S.

28 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

25 February 2010 – Daily Drag Show?

Posted on | February 25, 2010 | 29 Comments

25 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

Scarf – Echo
Sweater – J Crew
Denim Pencil Skirt- BR Outlet
Belt – New York & Co
Boots- Banana Republic, via ebay

Endnotes:

Today I am wearing this beautiful paisley scarf in shades of green and blue sent to me from Echo. I loved how S. has been wearing scarves over turtlenecks and how my scarf looked yesterday around the popped collar of my button down. I don’t own many turtlenecks so tried it out with a shawl neck color sweater and am rather satisfied with the effect. This scarf is a large square in a light thin material. Echo has how many beautiful colors, patterns, and shapes and I’m excited to have a shape I don’t usually wear. Like E. the other day, I folded my scarf into a triangle and wrapped the small points behind my neck and then tied them in the front underneath the larger point of the triangle. I am really liking this style and I already have many ideas of how I will wear this once the weather finally warms up a bit!

Square Scarf from Echo, originally uploaded by academichic.

Ok, now for part two of my digression. I wrote yesterday about dressing to express identity and the possibility of changing styles to express a different identity to different people. All of your comments are so interesting!

As promised I want to talk a little bit about drag. I have done quite a bit of thinking about drag because in my studies I continually wrestle with Judith Butler and because I am writing my dissertation on a male artist who often poses as a woman in his photographs. I also love a good drag show for entertainment and believe that drag has significant political potential. This political and radical potential was confirmed for me this past weekend – I saw some amazing activist performers.

I also heard an interesting suggestion about daily drag. I have long believed that to some degree we often all dress in drag – this is because I believe that gender is a construction and that clothing works to construct and perpetuate gender identity. However my thoughts on this were pushed further by a speaker at the conference who argued that we have two options when getting dressed: we either dress in drag or in a uniform. If we don’t think about the message our clothing is sending that we are wearing a uniform, if we are conscious of it then it’s drag. According to her definition, drag is a conscious dressing that sends a message about gender identity and makes people laugh, cry, or think. If we take this definition then S. E. and I are dressing in drag everyday (at least everyday we post here) since we are certainly very conscious of what we are wearing and the messages it might convey. I’m still working though these ideas but what do you think about this uniform vs. drag thing?

Ok, so why do I find this a powerful idea? Sal asked yesterday if anyone made any comments or asked any questions about my attire.
I was very comfortable and confident in my appearance and I felt totally accepted (I think this feeling had a lot to do with my own confidence) but I did have a few students ask me questions about how I dressed. One student asked if I felt like I “passed,” if people assumed I was straight because of how I dressed. I think our default is usually that someone is straight so while perhaps my clothing could reveal my sexuality, I would still “pass” on the phone, on paper, etc. I explained to my students that I am confident in my clothing and that helps me feel confident about my identity, my relationship, and my scholarship.

I think the idea of dressing in drag appeals to me because I am aware that my clothing is a choice and that it sends a message and I like that my daily performance challenges people’s notions about what it means to be a lesbian and what it means to be feminine. Our words and actions have to work in conjunction with our clothing and when you take my whole package into account there are some great seeming contradictions at work: I love pencil skirts and I am a lesbian, I wear heals and run marathons, I like pink and hot sauce and dark beer, I wear ruffly dresses and work boots and gloves. I agree with most of you who said you pick what you wear based on the situation (pencil skirts for teaching, jeans for the bar, trendier items for campus, conservative wear for an interview, etc) but I have found that my overall sense of style doesn’t change as much as it once did (in an attempt to fit in with different groups of people). Yet, it is empowering to remember that if it is all drag, a dramatic costume change is always an option!

25 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

25 February 2010

Posted on | February 25, 2010 | 17 Comments

25 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

Jacket: Banana Republic Factory
Top: thrifted
Scarf as belt: courtesy of Echo Design
Pants: Old Navy
Pumps: Madden Girl, DSW

End Notes:

If our scarf month has made anything clear to me, it’s that I my collection was missing a good, patterned silk scarf. I say “was,” because the good folks at Echo Design graciously sent us some scarves to play with, including this long, narrow estate scrolls scarf. At first glance it may seem like a surprising choice for me, but I love the stylized, swirling vines and I think the red and tan color combination will actually prove surprisingly versatile.

Especially for renewed attempts at pattern mixing.

25 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

I actually really love how these patterns look together — the geometric diamonds with the more organic scrolls — and the color combination is classic as well. I’m excited to try this scarf out in other iterations, including as a “blouse” under a blazer or cardigan.

Finally, I’ve loved readings everyone’s comments on A.’s post about dressing for different audiences and identity groups. As you can probably tell from my post about dressing to announce a cultural affinity back in January and Sally’s guest post on style and the social self, this is a big, recurring question that we all return to frequently. And yet, there’s always more to say!