academichic

Changing academic fashion, one PhD at a time

Fashion 101: Tights

Posted on | March 8, 2010 | 14 Comments

Contemporary fashion theorists and historians commonly agree that fashion — all the clothes humans have worn throughout history — is comprised of a limited set of forms that get repeated with variations over time. Such an argument is quite compelling when one considers the history of tights. Men from the Middle Ages through the seventeenth century wore close-fitting (that is, “tight”) hose under doublets, and since then tightly knit legwear has enjoyed various incarnations.

Tights — as we’re defining them for the purpose of this Fashion 101 — are the heavier cousins of pantyhose, clocking in at over 40 denier (the linear mass density of fibers, of course). Brightly colored, textured, and patterned tights have been quite common in women’s fashion for the last few years, and if the runways of Fall 2010 New York Fashion Week are any indication, bold legwear will remain popular for at least another season.

Recommended:

Now is the time to grab tights in patterns or hues that you might not normally gravitate towards since they’re currently deeply marked down. E. has been taking full advantage of winter clearance sales for that very purpose. So has her always-generous mother-in-law.

Course Goals:

After completing this course in tights, students will be able to:

  • demonstrate an understanding of how different tights can change the appearance of an entire outfit
  • utilize tights to create the illusion of a (very) long leg line
  • utilize brightly colored tights to create more complex color outfit color schemes, without looking like a Dr. Seuss character
  • utilize patterned or textured tights
  • demonstrate appropriate pairings of tights with open toed shoes
  • demonstrate the effective layering of tights to create new colors or color combinations
  • judiciously employ boldly patterned tights while avoiding the appearance of an eight year old girl

And because the Midwest weather has a wicked sense of humor, of course Academichic central will be experiencing unseasonably warm temperatures this week. Nevertheless, A. will do what she can given meteorological constraints, E. will be posting from her Spring Break visit to New York where it should still be a bit cooler, and S. will be returning to Germany where, indeed, it is still tights weather. If temperatures are still chilly in your neck of the woods, play along with us this week. And, as always, we’d love to see pictures of your best look with tights!

Fashion 101 on Cardigans: Playing with Pattern

Posted on | March 1, 2010 | 32 Comments

Polka dots and Damask, originally uploaded by academichic.

This week we’re participating in a Fashion 101 course on Cardigans. I have a few patterned cardigans that I really like but don’t wear all too often because I feel limited in how to incorporate them into my wardrobe. Thus far, I have always worn them over solid tops, thinking that the cardigan’s pattern necessitated a simple solid colored top underneath. In an attempt to be more creative with my clothing and to get more use out of what I already own, I challenged myself to do some pattern mixing with said patterned cardigans for our Fashion 101 week.

I started with the outfit shown above because I was fairly certain that this particular pattern mix would work: I’m mixing a large damask print with a dark, almost indiscernible small polka dot print. We articulated this pattern mix approach in our Fashion 101 on Pattern last year: it seems like mixing one dominant print (the damask here) with a small print (the polka dot) makes for an interesting yet not overwhelming result.

Polka dots detail, originally uploaded by academichic.

Feeling pretty pleased with the outcome, I thought I would give more pattern mixing a shot. I don’t believe that there is a wrong or right way to do this, since liking the outcome is all a matter of personal taste and aesthetics. What may strike one person as a harmonious combination might appear to someone else as chaotic and overwrought. Case in point with this next combination:

Bold Pattern Mix, originally uploaded by academichic.

This particular mix is too loud for my personal taste. You can see what a difference adding a second bright and large print to an already large and bright print can make. It appears like the patterns are competing for attention since they are equally dominant and bold. They are perhaps also too close in pattern shape, with the damask and floral being both composed of swirls and loops, which also adds to the seemingly combative appearance of this mix.

Dark Stripes and Damask, originally uploaded by academichic.

If two prints that are close in color, similar in shape, and equal in size appear loud and attention-grabbing, I reasoned that perhaps pairing the damask print with a different pattern shape, color, and size a more harmonious result might make. While the above combination of navy stripes with pink damask is interesting, I’m not certain that I love it. I feel neither appalled nor all too excited about it. What do you think of this one?

Light stripes and Damask, originally uploaded by academichic.

I thought that perhaps a lighter, less obtrusive stripe would make this pairing even more harmonious. As with the polka dots of the first example, this light striped pattern is inconspicuous enough that it hardly poses a threat to the damask and the two can co-exist in perfect harmony.

Stripes detail, originally uploaded by academichic.

As a last shot at stripes and damask, I pulled out this pink and white striped top thinking that it would be an absolute disaster with the pink damask. I assumed the monochromatic color scheme to confuse the eye wanting to make sense of different patterns of the same color.

Pink on Pink, originally uploaded by academichic.

I was, however, pleasantly surprised by the result. And then I remembered that we had discussed this phenomenon during out Pattern Mixing modules as well: one way to mitigate the busyness of multiple prints is by keeping the pattern in the same color family. That way you’re only dealing with one variable: the print. The pink on pink pairing shows that a monochromatic pattern mix can prove surprisingly docile.

Plaid and Damask, originally uploaded by academichic.

Lastly, I scoured my closet for what I was sure would be one more I’d-never-leave-the-house-in-this ensemble (as with the red and pink combo above) and pulled out this black and white plaid button down. On the hanger, the colors and print of this top promised to make an absolute awful match with the pink damask, but on myself, I actually love it. The lesson here being: try things on and experiment! None of these combinations ended up looking quite as I had predicted and I was surprised how many pairings that I had deemed inconceivable ended up working well (and vice-versa).

Graphic Tee and Damaks, originally uploaded by academichic.

I tried one last pairing with the patterned cardigan and a graphic tee. The graphic tee provides a small focalized pattern mix and can be an easy way to transition into more daring pattern combinations.

Overall, my two favorite pairings were these ones (the plaid and the small polka dot):

IMG_7195
IMG_7091

What about yours? How do these different combinations strike you?

I hope this visual exploration of how one might mix a patterned cardigan with various patterned tops has provided you with some inspiration for your own closet. While I am no expert and can only represent my own taste and style, I hope that the one thing you can walk away with, if nothing else, is to experiment and try stuff out. Style rules in the abstract are fine and good, but nothing beats actually trying things on and seeing how methodologies fare once put into practice. So go forth, experiment, and have fun with it!

Fashion 101: Cardigans

Posted on | March 1, 2010 | 8 Comments

Named after James Brundell, the Seventh Earl of Cardigan and initially part of British military uniform, the cardigan sweater has since become an important staple in women’s wardrobes. All three of us at Academichic depend on cardigans to stretch our wardrobe across seasons, yet we have never self-consciously articulated how and why we make cardigan choices.

This course will cover the uses of a range of cardigan styles including, but not limited to, chunky, flowing, embellished, patterned, asymmetrical, long, longer, cropped, and of unusual shape.

After completing this course in cardigans, students will be able to:

  • demonstrate the thoughtful and effective use of diverse cardigans shapes
  • demonstrate creative layering of cardigans and other garments
  • utilize cardigans to mix patterns or textures
  • utilize cardigans to create a more complex color palette
  • embellish their own cardigans

To that end, this week we will offer, besides our regular outfit posts, DIY tutorials and explanatory posts that demonstrate how cardigan choices can change the entire look of an outfit. Tutorials and explanatory posts will also be linked to from our Taking Notes page.

Up Next

Posted on | February 28, 2010 | 9 Comments

When you’re tired of your winter wardrobe and struggle to find inspiration through the last cold weeks before spring…what do you do? All three of us at Academichic, nerds that we are, do some of our best creative thinking under pressure. So, to help us make it through March we’re planning four Fashion 101’s in quick succession with topics chosen from your suggestions.

Week One: Cardigans

Week Two: Tights

Week Three: Belts (Hey! No eye rolling!)

Week Four: Jackets and Blazers

If you have specific questions or issues that you’d like to see addressed, feel free to leave us a comment or send us an e-mail. We’re excited to push ourselves to experiment with old standards and articulate rules of thumb that we’ve found useful. The fun starts Monday. Stay tuned…

Fashion 101: Scarves

Posted on | February 8, 2010 | 9 Comments

Once used by the Romans to wipe sweat off their necks and faces, scarves have become a 3-season staple of stylish women around the world. The term “scarf” is really quite loose, encompassing everything from silk squares to long flannel strips to generous pashmina rectangles. Though they may seem ubiquitous and even benign now, scarves have historically served as indicators of status or politics. Militaries in China and Europe used scarves to signify ranks and in the 18th century, the manner in which an English or Frenchmen knotted his cravat was considered an indication of his taste level or even political leanings.

The most relevant definitions for “scarf” in the Oxford English Dictionary include:

1.  A broad band of silk or other material, worn (chiefly by soldiers or officials) either diagonally across the body from one shoulder to the opposite hip, or round the waist.

3a. A broad strip of silk, gauze, or other fine material, worn hung loosely over the shoulders or otherwise as an ornamental accessory to the costume.

e. A band of warm and soft material worn round the neck in cold weather.

The definitions from the O.E.D. highlight the dual nature of the scarf as a functional accessory. On a practical level, scarves can provide warmth on blustery days or keep hair in place when riding in a convertible. They can offer a little extra coverage when out for the evening or even function as a belt. But even beyond functionality, a scarf can serve as the ultimate accessory, adding a pop of color to an otherwise neutral outfit, creating a more complex color scheme for the outfit as a whole, contributing visual interest through pattern or texture, or adding a bit of whimsy.

scarves

All three of us at Academichic love scarves and adding a scarf to a daily outfit is almost second nature, especially when it’s cold outside. But this Fashion 101 module is intended to prompt us to be more thoughtful in our use of scarves, to demonstrate how scarves can change the look of an outfit, and to explore a range of methods of tying scarves.  Because we are all in colder climates, we will likely focus on winter-weight scarves. (But, never fear, it’s likely we’ll revisit this module again in the warmer spring weather!)

This month, we’re challenging ourselves to refrain from falling into a scarf rut by experimenting with new-to-us ways to knot and style scarves. We’re also sharing any scarf tying links or tips we’ve found helpful in informing our scarf methodologies. To see all our scarf month posts, just click on “February 2010” in the Archives.

For additional resources, see our Scarf Tying Bibliography.

Fashion 101: Color Review Session 4

Posted on | August 16, 2009 | 10 Comments


Color Wheel of Clothes, originally uploaded by academichic.

When we first explored the color wheel and experimented with various color combinations, we found it to be extremely helpful in lending us new eyes with which to see our wardrobes. This was so useful the first time around, that we decided to revisit the color modules and to challenge ourselves to a review session using our summer wardrobes. We have recently reexamined Neutrals and Neutrals with a Pop, Complementary Colors and the Two-Thirds Rule, Triads and Analogous Colors, and are now left to go over Monochrome and Split Complementary Color Combinations.

To read more about this color mix lesson, click here…

(more…)

Fashion 101: Color Review Session 3

Posted on | August 9, 2009 | 7 Comments


Color Wheel of Clothes, originally uploaded by academichic.

When we first explored the color wheel and experimented with various color combinations, we found it to be extremely helpful in lending us new eyes with which to see our wardrobes. This was so useful the first time around, that we decided to revisit the color modules and to challenge ourselves to a review session using our summer wardrobes. In our first review session we reexamined Neutrals and Neutrals with a Pop, and for the second review session, we tackled Complementary Colors and the Two-Thirds Rule.

This week we will review Triads and Analogous Colors. To read more about this color mix lesson, click here…

(more…)

Fashion 101: Color Review Session 2

Posted on | July 26, 2009 | 13 Comments


Color Wheel of Clothes, originally uploaded by academichic.

When we first explored the color wheel and experimented with various color combinations, we found it to be extremely helpful in lending us new eyes with which to see our wardrobes. This was so useful the first time around, that we decided to revisit the color modules and to challenge ourselves to a review session using our summer wardrobes. In our first review session we reexamined Neutrals and Neutrals with a Pop.

This week we will review Complementary Colors and the Two-Thirds Rule. To read more about this color mix lesson, click here…

(more…)

18 July 2009 – Neutrals with a Pop of Baby

Posted on | July 18, 2009 | 41 Comments

18 July 2009 – Neutrals with a Pop of Baby, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

  • Beige cardigan: Pretty Good, from Marshalls
  • White nursing cami: Target
  • Cream skirt: BR Outlet
  • Metallic wedges: Target.com
  • Baby e.: self-made!

End Notes:

It’s been exactly one week since we brought baby e. home from the hospital. Ironically, today is also baby e.’s original due date. I suppose this picture can serve as my final bump picture.

Adjusting to motherhood has been just as exhausting and just as wonderful as everyone had predicted. Baby e. is a delight. I have been relishing the time that N. and I can spend with him as my gracious MIL and SIL have been in town to help us out.

I spent most of the week rotating through my trusty jersey skirts, but today I wanted to make one little contribution to our review session on neutrals and pulled out this airy cream cotton skirt that has a forgiving elastic waistband. The open front cardi — a just-before-baby buy — has a wonderful, snuggly drape and offers the necessary coverage-but-access for breastfeeding. This is a really light, soft palette for me, but, like S. discovered a few days ago it has a quiet sophistication about it.

And, of course, it makes the perfect backdrop for a little pop of baby.

18 July 2009, originally uploaded by academichic.

Fashion 101: Color Review Session 1

Posted on | July 12, 2009 | 15 Comments


Color Wheel of Clothes, originally uploaded by academichic.

When we first explored the color wheel and experimented with various color combinations, we found it to be extremely helpful in lending us new eyes with which to see our wardrobes. This was so useful the first time around, that we decided to revisit the color modules and to challenge ourselves to a review session using our summer wardrobes. (Since E. recently gave birth to baby e., she’ll be excused from the review session unless she decides to join in from time to time.)

This coming week, we will review Neutrals and Neutrals with a Pop. To read more about this color mix lesson, click here…

(more…)

keep looking »

Contextual

Three feminist PhD candidates at a Midwest university, on a crusade against the ill-fitting polyester suit of academic yore.

Funding

Fellowships

Contact

Curriculum Vitae

Networking

Academichic on Facebook

Image Appendix

www.flickr.com

Subscribe to our feed

Search

Admin