Some musings from E.:
Far and away, the most popular advice for interviewees on the academic job market is:
Business suit in dark neutral color + colorful blouse or scarf or not-too-glitzy necklace + sensible shoes = Interview Outfit.
This makes sense to me. I adore a great blazer; I feel super confident in a structured jacket. So when I go on the job market “for real,” you had better believe that I am going to go and buy a charcoal gray or navy suit, and I’ll be looking for one that has a pant and skirt option, to boot.
A couple of years ago, pre-baby and pre-blog, I went on a (severely budget-restrained) suit shopping expedition before my first academic conference. I ended up buying a suit jacket from an Ann Taylor clearance rack: the mini tweed blazer I’ve worn on this site before. It’s served me well for what it is, but it’s also taught me some things that I do and do not like in suit jackets. So when my big suit shopping moment comes…
I’ll probably look for:
- Softer neutrals, like navy or charcoal gray. A little less corporate than all black and arguably more versatile for being broken up in later outfits. No tweed. No plaid. I worry that brown might look dated in a few years. But I might be open to a subtle herringbone.
- A one or two button jacket with a lower stance. The stance is where the top button falls on your torso. My three button Ann Taylor blazer has a higher stance which I’ve since realized isn’t my most flattering look. A lower stance would look a little less boxy on my not-busty frame and would help break up my long torso. I hear that the opposite might be true for women with bigger chests.
- A jacket that comes in a Tall size. Fit is key, and I was lazy and cheap with the first blazer I bought. It works fine with skirts and dresses where I visually raise my waist, but with pants it’s obvious that the jacket isn’t quite long enough. I need a Tall size to accomodate my long torso.
- A jacket with shorter sleeves. I am a really bad sleeve fidgeter, and I would rather have a slightly less formal suit with three-quarter or bracelet sleeves (or even rolled cuffs) than be an annoying fidgeter. Seriously, I would probably even take a suit jacket to a tailor to have the sleeves shortened.
In the meantime, I’ll be thinking about…
Why are suits de rigueur interview attire, even in industries where suits are not regular workday attire? How have tailored suits for women evolved in their appearance and their affect? Why do I feel more confident in a skirt + jacket combo than a pantsuit and can I reclaim traditionally feminine dressing like Sally discussed a few days ago? And (though I might need some wine for this thought excursion) what are the gender, race, and class politics of socially-acceptable “professional” attire, courtesy of the very smart ladies at Threadbared?
And I’d love for you tell me…
What are your tips for finding a great suit? What has served you well? What have you found to be most flattering for your body and why? Do you have a preference for a skirt suit versus a pant suit and why? How do you personalize a suit? I’m so excited to have a reserve of resources and advice at my finger tips, so bring on your tips, suggestions, and misgivings.
I’m with you on the buttons having a lower stance (I learned a new term today!). Also the jacket needs to not be too boxy. Unlike a man’s suit jacket, I want a jacket to still show my form. The one I wear all spring and fall is a dark grey and in the summer, a 3/4 length sleeve black cotton one.
I’m SO glad you guys are covering ‘interview attire’ this week. As someone who is currently job hunting, I’d forgotten how daunting picking the right interview outfit can be. Sometimes it’s obvious– this is a consulting firm, and we wear suits here!– but often, it’s not so cut and dry. I’m currently interviewing for media/communications jobs, which allow for a little more flexibility in terms of what is and isn’t ‘acceptable.’ Unfortunately, more flexibility means more options means more confusion!
Anyway, I own one suit at the moment, and it’s black (which, like you said, screams CORPORATE– I often feel way overdressed walking into interviews) and rather ill-fitting. I’m more on the petite side, so I think my next wardrobe project will be hunting for some great (and inexpensive) mix-and-match suit separates that fit properly, and look professional (without looking too dowdy or overdone.)
I am such a nerd — I LOVE suits! I don’t wear them often since my office is business casual (if I had to wear a suit everyday I might feel differently).
I much prefer a pant suit to a skirt suit…I’m just a pants person in general. I do try to buy the corresponding skirt when available, just to have the option. I’ve found that a longer, three-button blazer fits best on my torso (hitting me at the bottom of my hip bone). I think with a skirt, I’d prefer a shorter jacket, so the skirt doesn’t look so short (I’m pretty short so it’s easy for skirts to look stumpy on me). I’d really like to find a suit that is a dress + blazer. My personal rule is to wear colorful fun shoes with a suit, however.
Great articles!
I’m not a fan of matching suits – I find them too … I don’t know. Air-hostess-ish? might buy all three pieces of a suit but I’d rarely wear them together. I agree with E on black suits: if I had to buy a suit, I’d go for grey or another neutral color. Black is so funereal and not many people can really wear it (I can’t, I’m way too fair). My biggest suit mistake was committed way back in the 90s. A sand-colored linen suit, pants/skirt/jacket, that immediately looked crumpled and awful the minute I put it on. And not crumpled in a nice linen-y crumple. Just crumpled.
I like suits. Last time I interviewed (man, over five years ago now) I ended up with two great new suits — a black (or maybe it’s midnight blue) DKNY suit with white pickstitch stripes (three pieces) and a grey texture-y peplum-jacket and skirt combo. I also have a pale tan-ish pant suit (in a color called “ash”, one needs light colored suits in the south).
Unfortunately, the only known purpose of suits in academia AFTER you interview is to make your boss wonder if you’re thinking about leaving for another job. All my suits are at least a size too big now, and I keep thinking about getting them altered, and then I think “why?” In my department I’m the most senior person (other than the chair and a dean who is housed with us) and the person who puts most thought into dressing. My closest peer (a man) wears jeans to work practically every day.
Thank you for your insights on jackets! Apparently I’d do well with a three button version. I had no idea!
If I were to buy a suit right now, I’d definitely go for navy or gray, like you said. My current options are black and brown, neither of which excites me at all. I’m not sure if a suit would be the best interview attire for the jobs I’m applying for though. Like BA said above, it can be confusing when the potential job isn’t corporate.
Even though I work in a corporate field, I’ve never worn a suit to an interview or to work. I think its much more fun to try and create an appropriate outfit out of less typical items.
I work in the medical field. While my job does not require a suit for daily use, it is expected on interviews. Taking that into account, having a suit that does some dual duty is a must for me. I definitely like a lower stance, mostly because it can easily be dressed up or down. I have a variety of suits that I’ve collected over the years, in different colors and fabrics–black summer, black winter, and a grey one with a navy pinstripe. (I’ve found the grey one to be surprisingly versatile!) I would definitely recommend getting a more seasonally neutral fabric so you can get more wear out of it. Also, I have one suit that has a dress instead of a skirt and I’ve found myself wearing that suit in its various combinations the most. I personally find the suits at J. Crew fit me the best. I appreciate their high quality fabrics and I can speak from experience in saying that pieces from different years can be worn together successfully and still look cohesive.
Happy suit hunting and good luck with your interviews!
The Limited has nice suiting in a variety of lengths/sizes (key for short people like me!). The only problem is that some of their jackets are decidedly trendy in terms of detailing and fabric, so they’ll likely look dated in a few years. As stand-alone blazers, though, those jackets are excellent.
Thanks for the shout-out, beautiful!
I’m useless on the suit question, as I’ve NEVER found a great suit. At least not for myself. If you’ve got any plus-sized readers, though, I’ve found absolutely gorgeous suiting for my makeover clients at Talbots Woman. Truly.
ok, so i’m sold on finding a dark gray suit for my upcoming interviews. someone mentioned limited, but where else should i check? banana republic, ann taylor, somewhere else? any suggestions would be appreciated!
When I was on the market last year, I found a killer gray suit at Banana Republic petites. So I would definitely recommend them for classic cuts and colors, and for overall quality.
MLA was in Philly in December last year; that, combined with all of my interviews being hosted in hotels rooms, led me to take a more conservative approach. I wore the pants version of the suit (and saved the skirt for campus lectures). I did, though, use peacock blue pinstripes in the shirt and oxblood red shoes to add a bit of character. Apparently it worked!
At any rate, I think the interview locale plays a role. This year, MLA is in LA. Were I to go to that one, I’d be less buttoned up than in Philly — probably would pair the suit skirt with a colored silk blouse and no jacket.
I bought a black suit for my job market year last fall and it served me well. However I made a mistake about the fit of the pants. At the time I didn’t think about wearing the pants without the jacket and it turns out the pants by themselves are not so great. Sometimes a great suit doesn’t break up well into separates. So I guess I would suggest to carefully watch that. I eventually had to find another pair of pants that match the jacket. Which is easier with black, by the way.
I have a large bust (E cup) and am just over 5’3″ so suits can be a challenge. I have had the best luck ordering larger petite sizes on top and regular sizes for the bottom — it’s just the way my body is made. I’m basically a 6, but jackets fit me way better in a petite 8 or 10. I wish I’d discovered that 10 years ago! Also, I like J Crew and Banana Republic — both have good online sales a few times a year. I think J Crew has the best quality. I have a navy wool suit on order from Banana Republic.com and am hoping the fit is what I expect! I look for their 40% off online sales.
Another total suit lover here!
This is a great entry, I appreciate the thoughts about suits that last vs suits that will look dated soon.
I just thrifted a vintage 60s suit (in pristine condition for under ten bucks!) in tomato red, but I’m not sure if I’m brave enough to wear it to the MLA. I’ve seen the milling nervous hordes for a couple of years now, and I do not want to blend completely, but the red suit might be a bit too Joan Holloway and not enough Peggy Olsen.
Also, anybody know how to dress for LA in January? I’ve never been so I have no idea.
My suits are all from The Limited, since it is easy to find affordable stylish suits there.
I prefer a pants suit, because for some reason it makes me feel more confident. Skirt suits feel odd to me, and I mostly wear the one skirt suit I have as separates.
I hate hate hate suits! I’m not comfortable in them and haven’t worn mine in 2 years. I also think womens’ suit look cheap very easily (and even after spending considerable money). I keep saying I’ll buy a super nice one from J. Crew, and then don’t, because I’d rather spend the money on something I love. I’d much rather wear a very sharp, put-together outfit–well-tailored pants with a great blouse and a long cardigan springs to mind. Why should I pretend to be something I’m not during an interview, when I’d rather wear something that truly reflects me?
Sorry for the rant. I’m curious to see others’ suggestions on how to make a suit more wearable! And that being said, I’ll probably still wear a suit next time I’m interviewing.
I have to say that I hate suits. I am slender on top, with wider shoulders, narrow waist, longer torso, and small chest. This is not easy to suit well. But when I MUST wear a suit, it is a skirt suit. This way I don’t have to worry about the blazer length and the waistband- my natural waistline is high enough that the proportions look OK. Plus, blazers make me look square, and I think showing my legs balances out the look. Higher waisted pants might help too, but I like my waist to be free (in pants).
I don’t plan to interview for another job for a long long time, but if I do, I’ll probably wear a suit jacket and one of those Calvin Klein sheath dresses.
I am pretty conservative when it comes to interviews. Part of getting a job is successfully jumping through a lot of hoops. Sending in an application – resume and cover letter. Just as resumes should stick to a standardized format, I think that interviews tend to follow a straightforward “script.” Going too far outside of the suit category – regardless if you are wearing pants or a two-button or three-button blazer – feels too much like improvising. Maybe you’ll get lucky and hit the exact right improv note, and maybe you’ll crash. As long as I want to be seriously considered, I feel that serious digs are in order. I’d never go to an interview in anything but a suit.
There’s a good chance that in academia or business, the person interviewing you will be wearing a suit and older than you are. As much as you want to express yourself through your clothes, it’s important to remember your audience. It’s likely that you’ll be meeting with a dean or University President — something I’d be uncomfortable doing unless I was properly suited up.
If you are young, it’s all the more important for your clothes to convey that you are capable and understand what’s expected of you in certain situations, especially formal interviews and the many rituals of higher ed (graduations, parents receptions, etc).
The beauty of higher ed is that you don’t have to wear a suit every day. But the fact is, to get through the gate, you might have to wear one.
As a possessor of a larger chest:
Higher buttons do not work on me at all. This is because, if the jacket is large enough in the chest that that button can button, it is too large everywhere else. (Alternately, it is more or less the right size elsewhere and is pulling obviously and horribly over my chest.)
I am willing to entertain the hypothetical that a properly-shaped three-button (or other high-stance) jacket would be flattering on me. But as I have never encountered such an object, I maintain my implacable hatred of them.
(I know that Stacey and Clinton are all about high-stance jackets for large-chested women, but I note neither of them has a large chest, and I don’t find their advice here credible. I think high-stance jackets on large-chested women tend to make us look more boxy, in that “battleship” sense, where the entire torso takes on the circumference of the chest. Yikes. I suppose this is “professional” and “powerful” if you think that entirely desexualizing a woman is professional and powerful, but I prefer not to subscribe to that theory.)
Thanks, everyone, for your thoughts and comments so far.
@Andromeda – From my days of committed What Not To Wear watching, I seem to recall Stacy and Clinton telling larger-chested women to “lock and load” with a higher stance, but that they would most likely have to get their suits tailored. I think that this means that your implacable hatred is justified.
To all those who don’t like suits, you’re not alone. And since none of us Chics currently own suits, we’ll be experimenting with lots of non-suit outfits later this week. Still, it seemed wise to acknowledge the place of suits in interview-culture.
I’m sympathetic to the whole “bait and switch” argument — why would you wear a suit to an interview if you’re not a “suit type” of person? But the more I think about it, I do think — that in specific circumstances that you will have to judge on a subjective basis — wearing a suit is less about making a personal style statement and much more about demonstrating that you are capable of understanding and participating in a particular social experience. Relatedly, wearing a straight suit-and-oxford to an interview in a “creative” field might suggest that you don’t understand the expectations of that particular social space.
In any case, we’re less about dispensing rules here and more about understanding why these “rules” and expectations have gained traction in the first place.
- E
@Andromeda – Re: “I note neither of them has a large chest.” I had a momentary giggle fit imagining Clinton as a drag queen with a large chest and a structured jacket that fit.
Not sure how helpful it will be for folks who have fit issues different than mine, but I just did a piece on my search for a pants suit:
http://www.noonewatching.com/archives/2010/09/the_great_suit_search.html
I think that you should only wear a suit for an interview if you would wear a suit on the job. I usually wear suit pants with a blouse and a cardigan. I also think that if you can’t afford a nice suit you should definitely skip it. Suits are so hard to fit properly that cheap suits will almost never get it done. Any interviewer who cares about what you are wearing will spot the cheap ill-fitting suit and it’ll work against you more than helping you. I also think that the person who has the confidence to break the mold (or tweak it a little) stands out more from the crowd.
I kind of find myself wishing that one of you lovely Academic Chic ladies had that large bust problem … I kind of miss S.’s posts about having a shorter torso.
On another note, the August issue of Oprah magazine has the solution of a sheath dress and jacket for a larger, busty woman, and it looks great. There are actually a few good and practical makeover looks in there.
Suits have their place in the world. I don’t think I’m a fan any longer though. I realise they are right for certain occasions and jobs (ie, I’m glad my doctor wears a suit when s/he’s talking about something serious to me). I guess it harks back to our need for uniforms at school, a sign of the group over the individual, hierarchy, power, soldiers, war, survival etc. When I used to wear a suit I felt like I had more power, it’s true. We are just a step away from animals underneath our clothing but we do our best through our clothing to signal otherwise! Enough of my philosophising. For me the best suits at the best price have always come from Zara. Fashionable, chic, cheap. Love that shop!
I realize that our posts might be running on parallel tracks. For many academics, there’s the (pre) interview that may take place at a large national conference and then a multi-day campus visit that may include panel interviews, teaching demonstrations, meals, and possibly meeting a higher up like a dean or president.
For pre-interviews, “business” wear that it common at conferences – skirts, dress pants, sweater/sets seem appropriate. I can’t imagine doing the gauntlet of campus activities suitless.
I think that I’ve always preferred pants for interviews just because I didn’t have to answer the question of nylons or no nylons!
I’ve been really happy with suits at Banana Republic, Ann Taylor Loft, and Gap (in the early 2000s, they had great suits). Plus, the suits are great separates.
Does anyone have any advice or recommended brands for pants suits if you have a short waist or torso? For dress pants a lot of brands now make lower-rise pants and those are great for me, however, I never find them as part of a pants suit! The “normal” pants that are sold as part of a suit come up too high on me and make me look out of proportion, so I can only wear the pants as part of the suit or with a sweater or top that can be worn untucked. Anyone out there with a similar body type have any luck?
Banana Republic Martin fit pants — as part of a suit — work for my short torso.
I don’t own a suit, and in my field (research science), I probably will not even need a full suit for academic interviews. (I think that it’s perceived as trying too hard/being too slick when an interviewee shows up in a full suit. In this field, it’s definitely bad to look too corporate, since it implies that you’ll decamp to a high-paying industry job at some point.) So, while I may acquire a suit at some point, I’m unlikely to wear it *as a suit.* Therefore, it’s important to me that the pieces be able to stand on their own. I think charcoal grey is a good color – super corporate black power suit would definitely read on the too slick side in my field. I personally would opt for full-length sleeves, though, particularly if I only had the one suit jacket, since you can’t wear long sleeved button down shirts with a 3/4 sleeve jacket.
Oh oh oh! Love this post…so many things to think about.
I tend to think the suit is something only for MLA interviews – all the rest of the time (conferences, on campus panels, teaching reviews, etc) a jacket with skirt or pants is perfectly appropriate, even better in some ways. That weird tension between the corporate world and academia is still so common, and in my field (of literature), you can get as much negative feedback for being overdressed as underdressed.
For me, a suit with pants and a skirt is a must – someone mentioned those dreaded MLA on-bed interviews, and I can’t imagine going into one of those in a skirt. That being said, the skirt suit is still best for formal work events – plus, I wear the skirt by itself all the time. Personally, I definitely favor a sweater beneath, even a cashmere tank – I hate buttondown shirts, as they don’t work for my body at all. For me, the key to personalization is the shoes – I love classic pumps in bright colors.
Thanks! – I’m sending all my friends on the interview trail to your site.
I’m with you- skirt suit all the way! I don’t know why, but I feel so much more powerful and put together in a skirt suit than in a pant suit.
My first suit (which I bought recently from a thrift store for a last-minute dinner) is not my fave. It’s a weird olive green color- I prefer non-black suits, but it’s a bit hard to match, so a charcoal would have been nicer. It’s a pant suit, which I don’t like as much, as because of the weird color I probably won’t be able to find a matching skirt. Plus it’s a bit big in the shoulders, which isn’t flattering on my frame.
The good news is that I don’t have to wear it very often- most of the time, even the dressy events I go to don’t require a full suit. I feel more confident in a skirt with a nice blouse and/or sweater, so I’m glad for that.
Amanda
I’ve been on the hunt for professional clothing for the past two months. So far I’ve discovered that while I’m busy (maybe DD), I have very delicate shoulders so shoulder pads are 100% out of the picture.
Unfortunately, any cute suit jackets I find at the Goodwill have shoulder pads sewn between the lining and outer layer so I can’t remove them. Then there is the issue of my breasts being too much for any semi-fitted jacket so the jacket then wrinkles under the arm coming out towards my bust.
Argh.
[...] As always, the usual caveats apply. This is meant to generate ideas, not offer didactic advice. Bodies are not neutral, so how your body is perceived socially will certainly impact how the clothes you put on them are received. And confidence is the best accessory, so if wearing a really sharp, tailored suit is what makes you feel polished and accomplished…then I say go for it. As I’ve already mentioned, I will most likely go suit shopping — at the very least for g… [...]
I work at a med school and hate interview season, because everyone looks the same. There’s no variation, with the exception of one year – a Pediatric interviewee wore a pale pink suit – Brava for her!!! Probably not the best color choice, but she stood out from the rest of the blacks and navys – boring!!!
My suggestion, however, is find a brand that fits you well with classic lines in a fabric that’s wearable year round. I’m a big fan of Tahari, Nine West, and of course – Ann Taylor.
Hee hee, I would pay good money to see that Clinton drag act.
@Hope: I have a sheath dress I have worn with a suit jacket and it looks fantastic. I have never gotten so many compliments on an outfit. Of course you have to find a sheath dress which fits, which can be a challenge…I got mine on sale at a Brooks Brothers outlet — I’d heard that some of their stuff is tailored appropriately for larger-chested women so I checked it out. Win!
Hi E,
Not for posting, just some advice for a body type of broad shoulders, long torso. Consider hand-me-downs: if the shoulders fit, it’s a relatively easy alteration to narrow the bust, waist, and skirt. Tailoring pants is trickier. For jackets, no one has mentioned Club Monaco, which cuts slim. For suits, bouclé may offer a more subtle texture than herringbone. Lastly, designer is likely to suit you well; perhaps you’ll stumble on a deal.
Good luck!
Another E with broad shoulders, long torso