academichic

22 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

• Scarf: gift from college roommate, from Spain
• Necklace: Target
• Gray sweater: Forever 21
• Slim knit pants: Ann Taylor
• Pumps: Steve Madden Girl

End Notes:

This was one of those days when I had very little time to switch roles from baby e. caretaker to PhD student in seminar. Thankfully, I now have a new weapon in my mom style arsenal: these ah-mazing slim knit pants from Ann Taylor, purchased on sale over President’s Day weekend. (Note: what follows is pure, non-sponsored gushing.) These pants are like heavy leggings with structure. They have a waistband, fly, pockets, and belt loops, but they’re just about as comfortable as yoga pants with a modern fit and polish that can go from sitting on the floor reading Brown Bear, Brown Bear, What Do You See? to sitting in class reading The Sleep of Reason: Primitivism in Modern European Art and Aesthetics. The heavier weight and straight cut make them more than forgiving and create the illusion of a long, slim leg line. I’m in love.

Scarf and Necklace Detail, originally uploaded by academichic.

Admittedly, a gray sweater and black pants (no matter how fantastic the fit) make for a somewhat boring outfit. So before I handed off baby e. to his dad and rushed off to class, I threw on a scarf and multi-strand necklace. Usually, I eschew necklaces — especially statement necklaces — when wearing a scarf. But today it seemed to make sense to layer on the neck accoutrements. I folded the large square scarf into a triangle and tied it like an oversized cowboy kerchief. The resulting droop left an open enough neck that a chunky necklace — albeit one in a subdued palette — could fill some space without being cluttered.

If I wear this scarf and necklace combination again, I think I’d shorten the necklace even more to be a bit more visible above the scarf. Of course, now I’m also tempted to try this with a bright statement necklace like my favorite orange baubles.

22 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

22 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

• Cardigan – Banana Republic
• Grey Skirt – Banana Republic
• White Blouse – Gap
• Boots – Banana Republic, via DSW
• Belt – BR Outlet
• Head Scarf – Gap

Endnotes:

I just came back from a fascinating conference on LGBT issues on college campuses, where I leaned so much and was pushed to think about so many issues, including clothes and self presentation.  I can’t wait to share some of my thoughts from the weekend with all of you, but for now, I’m exhausted, my brain is fried, and my day is too busy!

For today I needed something simple but I wanted to wear a scarf in a way not all that typical for me (ie not belted, tied around my waist, or knotted at my neck) so I went for the head scarf.  This is not nearly as creative or fun as S.’s hair scarf from earlier this month, but it did bring some color and pattern to an otherwise pretty plain ensemble.

Hope everyone’s week is off to a good start!  A.

22 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Thanks to everyone who entered our giveaway for the vintage scarf S. thrifted in Munich! Our winner is Emily (comment #216) who wrote:

I would wear this scarf with a white t-shirt and dark brown wool trousers…I’d probably tie it using the sneaky knot, and have the scarf in place of a large necklace.

That sounds lovely, Emily, and we hope you enjoy the scarf! Send us an e-mail with your mailing address and we’ll get it out to you as soon as possible! And stay tuned for one last giveaway this Friday as our scarf month comes to a close.

19 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

• Scarf – vintage, from my grandmother’s closet
• Green top – ON, thrifted
• Blazer – J.Crew
• Black skinnies – thrifted
• Boots – Banana Republic

Endnotes:

First, some outfit remarks: This particular silk square scarf is actually from my grandmother’s collection. She decided that she doesn’t wear these kinds of bright colors anymore so she passed it down to me. It’s got a funny vintage carriage design on it with two carriage drivers in the center. This is not a design or motif that I would necessarily pick out for myself, but I realized that it doesn’t actually matter much what’s on the scarf as much as which colors are used for it. Once the scarf is folded, bunched, or tied, there’s often little more that a burst of color to be noticed. (See exhibit B here).

Today I pulled out this homage to 19th century transport because I really wanted that green edge to add to my green top + navy blazer combo. I tied the scarf using the ascot method and added black jeans and boots.

Scarf detail, originally uploaded by academichic.

Ok, now on to the recent discussion we’ve been having over here. I really enjoyed E’s distinction between style and fashion and would like to add, that like E, I tend to use both high fashion and street style photography as a launching point (rather than an exact blueprint) for my own outfit creations. I would like my style to be a blend of different influences and aesthetics, not necessarily identifiable as a certain ‘look’ or ‘trend’. This is one of the reason why thrifting appeals to me so much; so many of my thrifted finds are unique and different and when I put together a stellar ‘thrifted’ outfit, I feel most successful in having performed Style rather than Fashion.

Which brings me to the topic of thrifting – I had asked in my last post about the ways that I – or you – use clothing or style as a means of resistance. And several of you pointed to thrifting as a conscious act of resistance against conspicuous consumption, or, as reader Lisa put it, as “an obvious rejection of our throw-away society”. I was struck by this comment because thrifting used to be a need-based practice for me while growing up. My clothes came from thrift stores because that’s all we could afford. It was by no means a political act back then. But as my financial circumstances have changed, the motives behind my shopping second-hand have as well. Now I thrift because I love the search and the hunt, but also because I really believe in the political practice of reusing, recycling, repurposing, and making things last.

It’s funny how resisting during totalitarian regimes would mean sneaking in foreign goods, which usually reflected the latest trends and the most modern creations, while resisting capitalism has us reaching for the old and the discarded. While these may appear like completely disparate practices, I’m struck by the similarity in the objective of both practices: it seems like both acts are done in search of individuality and out of a desire to be unique. And that bring me back to where we started – the question of Style vs. Fashion. I believe the reason so many of us prefer the term style blogger over fashion blogger is because we perceive the first to be more about expressing individuality and creativity rather than just following the masses. And as history has shown us, no matter what the political context, there is a certain irresistibility to standing out and perceiving oneself as unique and contrary to the status-quo. I guess wanting to be unique is not so unique after all. S.

19 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

18 February 2010 – NonFashion, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

On E.

• Moby Wrap
• Blue green pashmina – unknown origins
• Jeans – Target
• Gray sweater – F21
• Hollyhock gloves – Tulle
• Wedges – thrifted

On baby e.:

• Hat: gift from great aunt
• Onesie: thrifted (yes, baby e. thrifts too)
• Jeans: Carters

Sources:

Folks, this is a very unfashionable outfit. These are my “mom” jeans and my standby sweater. But, S.’s post on GDR chic yesterday prompted me to step outside and take a photo with baby e. while I contemplated the difference between “fashion” and “style.”

S. summarized the distinction as “external vs. internal forces of expression.” (This differentiation comes up regularly in style blogging, and Angie of You Look Fab and Sally of Already Pretty have had some wise words to share.) And it’s something I’ve been thinking about a lot over the past week as gorgeous images from NY Fashion Week have proliferated on blogs and in the NY Times Style & Fashion section.

Tricia, over at Bits and Bobbins has a recent thoughtful post regarding Fashion Week as an institution. And as I said in her comments, I tried really hard to be interested in NYFW this year. I really did. But somewhere in between information overload and washing another set of cloth diapers for baby e. my interest sort of petered away. It’s not that I necessarily think that Fashion Week epitomizes the effects of late capitalism ala Frederick Jameson — though the politics of commerce and consumption are certainly wrapped up in it — nor do I think that my own creativity somehow surpasses the thoughtful craftsmanship of those for whom clothing-making is a career. In fact, I very much appreciate those who synthesize the week for me and draw out interesting trends and highlights. But I do find that I treat even those images the same way that I do wardrobe_remix photographs: inspiration but not dictation, jumping off points not a finished product to emulate.

So on days like yesterday, when I am very, very unfashionable, I think I can still have style. Especially when purple gloves are involved. How do you understand the relationship between fashion and style? Do you consider yourself “fashionable” or “stylish” or both? What’s the difference to you?

18 February 2010 – NonFashion, originally uploaded by academichic.

18 February 2010 – NonFashion, originally uploaded by academichic.

P.S.  Even baby e. got to participate in scarf week a little bit!

For this week’s scarf giveaway, we’re doing something a little different. This scarf wasn’t sent to us by a sponsor but instead thrifted (with love!) by S. in Munich, Germany. We would like to show our appreciation for all your support and thoughtful input during our scarf month (and always) by sending one winner a little package with the above vintage scarf from Germany. This little beauty measures 32 inches on all sides, is a large square, and 100% silk.

If you would like to enter the giveaway, leave us a comment telling us what your favorite item to shop vintage is. For a second chance to win, leave a separate comment telling us how you would wear this scarf or what scarf tying technique you might try on it. This giveaway is open until Sunday, Midnight Central time, after which we will randomly select a winner.

18 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.

Sources:

• Purple tank – BR Outlet
• Purple cardi – H&M
• Pendant – Anthropologie
• Jeans – thrifted
• Boots – thrifted
• Vintage scarf – Vintage Threadz on Etsy

Endnotes:

I have thus far used a scarf to add a pop of color to a monochromatic outfit, to create a monochromatic color scheme, and to forge an analogous connection, so it should only follow that I tackle a complimentary color scheme today. This little yellow scarf joins the purples of my tank and cardigan to make for a bold and bright complimentary color mix. I find smaller square scarves to be a bit of a challenge but this lightweight vintage piece adds the perfect dash of color to brighten up my neckline. A. once wore this same sunflower scarf around her tote, which is a great way to make use of those gorgeous diminutive scarves that can be somewhat of a challenge for every day wear.

Complimentaries, originally uploaded by academichic.

Now I want to digress a bit today and point out an interesting article from a day ago in the New York Times featuring German photographer Ute Mahler. Mahler worked as a fashion photographer for a magazine called Sibylle in the GDR (East Germany during the divide) and in this brief interview she sheds some light on the role of clothing and artistic expression under a totalitarian regime. Mahler also makes the poignant distinction between fashion and style – in brief: external vs. internal forces of expression – and how in a society that restricts the former, the latter will invariably still thrive.

I wanted to point this out because it addresses a role of clothing we sometimes overlook – clothing as a means to subvert, challenge, or resist. And I don’t mean to resist or challenge mainstream trends or dominant looks of a given era. I mean a resistance on a much grander scale that challenges and subverts political agendas or reigning ideologies.

This article got me thinking, do I use clothing to make a political statement? I know I consciously make statements about my career, age, marital status, and financial income with the way I present myself to others, but what other statements do I make? Am I ever consciously using clothing as a way to resist or challenge something I don’t believe in? No easy answers come to mind other than the somewhat humorous example of A. and I having cross-dressed for a ‘gender bender’ party that certainly had implications beyond just dressing up as the opposite sex and having a good time. While I don’t have an obvious or simple conclusion for this post, I thought it was worth bringing this topic to you if for no other reason than to acquaint you with a really talented photographer and artist. And I more than encourage and welcome your thoughts on the matter. S.

18 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.