18 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.Sources:
- Purple tank – BR Outlet
- Purple cardi – H&M
- Pendant – Anthropologie
- Jeans – thrifted
- Boots – thrifted
- Vintage scarf – Vintage Threadz on Etsy
Endnotes:
I have thus far used a scarf to add a pop of color to a monochromatic outfit, to create a monochromatic color scheme, and to forge an analogous connection, so it should only follow that I tackle a complimentary color scheme today. This little yellow scarf joins the purples of my tank and cardigan to make for a bold and bright complimentary color mix. I find smaller square scarves to be a bit of a challenge but this lightweight vintage piece adds the perfect dash of color to brighten up my neckline. A. once wore this same sunflower scarf around her tote, which is a great way to make use of those gorgeous diminutive scarves that can be somewhat of a challenge for every day wear.
Complimentaries, originally uploaded by academichic.
Now I want to digress a bit today and point out an interesting article from a day ago in the New York Times featuring German photographer Ute Mahler. Mahler worked as a fashion photographer for a magazine called Sibylle in the GDR (East Germany during the divide) and in this brief interview she sheds some light on the role of clothing and artistic expression under a totalitarian regime. Mahler also makes the poignant distinction between fashion and style – in brief: external vs. internal forces of expression – and how in a society that restricts the former, the latter will invariably still thrive.
I wanted to point this out because it addresses a role of clothing we sometimes overlook – clothing as a means to subvert, challenge, or resist. And I don’t mean to resist or challenge mainstream trends or dominant looks of a given era. I mean a resistance on a much grander scale that challenges and subverts political agendas or reigning ideologies.
This article got me thinking, do I use clothing to make a political statement? I know I consciously make statements about my career, age, marital status, and financial income with the way I present myself to others, but what other statements do I make? Am I ever consciously using clothing as a way to resist or challenge something I don’t believe in? No easy answers come to mind other than the somewhat humorous example of A. and I having cross-dressed for a ‘gender bender’ party that certainly had implications beyond just dressing up as the opposite sex and having a good time. While I don’t have an obvious or simple conclusion for this post, I thought it was worth bringing this topic to you if for no other reason than to acquaint you with a really talented photographer and artist. And I more than encourage and welcome your thoughts on the matter. S.
18 February 2010, originally uploaded by academichic.
On a basic level, this whole blog is resistance, right? Resisting academic hegemony and what a scholar looks like? Which, I think, is a really important kind of resistance. When I started graduate school, I wish this blog had been around. It took me years of fumbling between jeans and suits to find a balance and to be taken seriously by by own teachers.
I think you all use style to cultivate a particular kind of ethos– one that stands to be empowering for lots of graduate students with lots of different style philosophies. Articulating a style philosophy in the ivory tower is in itself an act of resistance.
A blog I write for, Antenna, had a great discussion of academic style blogs (http://blog.commarts.wisc.edu/2010/02/02/style-blogging-and-retail-fandom/), and in the comments– thanks for the comment, E.– a discussion arose about the politics of style, including thrifting, supporting sustainable practices, etc. I think these are also good (although obvious) kinds of resistance.
Hm. There’s been really vibrant discussion on this topic at Fashionable Academics. Your perspective would have been interesting on those posts.
http://fashionableacademics.blogspot.com/
First of all, I love these pictures and the colour combos.
Now, to the serious part. Good questions you raise… if I take a moment to really look deep at why I dress like I do and how fashion became such a big part of my life (besides the obvious answer… it’s fun), I think I put so much effort into my look because it’s a little rebellion against the role of the housewife. Ugh, this is getting way to deep for a comment section of a blog but I feel this constant pressure to have kids (not vocal pressure, silent pressure too) because it’s just what good Christian girls do (yes, a generalization with many exceptions but that is a lot of what I see around me). And by dressing in a noticeable way and maybe even by landscaping, I’m just saying ‘I’m not exactly who you think I am’. Obviously, I could write a paper about this but let’s leave this comment sized. Wow, way too much self-reflection for a Thursday afternoon.
Excellent post, S., and possibly the bmost eloquent, accessible explanation of the difference between fashion and style that I’ve ever read.
I think the main thing I’m challenging with how I dress is the (hopefully now waning) idea that only modelesque, willowy, incredibly thin women can be beautiful and stylish. I’m no pioneer in this, especially among bloggers, but glad to be contributing in a small way to the expansion of the beauty ideal.
@Harrytimes – thanks for your comment, it brings up all kinds of reactions in me. To be succinct and honest: I wonder, if I’m trying to challenge assumptions about what caring about style or clothing says about my abilities as a scholar or academic, why I haven’t been more forthright about this site to my cohorts or my department. It seems that if I were really resisting certain stereotypes, I wouldn’t be so worried about ‘outing’ myself to my department.
@EmilyKennedy – thanks for the tip! I must have missed that one and I went looking for it and couldn’t find what you meant . . . perhaps you have the exact link to the post? I would love to see it!
@Jentine – thanks for sharing such a candid answer, I can totally understand what you mean.
S
That’s so interesting that you’re not “out” to your cohort. But you have a host of really practical reasons for not divulging your blog. I have a mom blog that I kept under wraps until graduation because my advisor would KILL me if she knew I was writing anything besides my dissertation. I still think that whether or not your blogging identity is in the open, your appearance is subversive– challenging really trenchant notions of what is frivolous and what is important, what an expert looks like, who may possess expert knowledge, etc.
I think that one way that people currently use style to subvert political and social norms is as a response to our consumer economy. Thrifting is an obvious rejection of our throw-away society. Unfortunately, over-consuming at Target, H $ M and other low price, anti-labor, anti-environment retailers embraces it.
I loved this post, and I love the comments here too. I agree with everyone that even if you’re not “out” about your blog in your department, you’re all using a form of strategic silence to create a protected space for resistance. Just because the department doesn’t know about the blog doesn’t mean it isn’t affected; you bring your clothes and style there, and it functions as commentary about you and your role. Y’all are part of a long tradition of women who’ve done that — like women in Stuart masques! (sorry, I’m working on my book’s costume-as-performance chapter right now, so I’ve got masque on the mind!)
[...] interesting post from Academichic about how style might thrive in an environment hostile to [...]
[...] is a very unfashionable outfit. These are my “mom” jeans and my standby sweater. But, S.’s post on GDR chic yesterday prompted me to step outside and take a photo with baby e. while I contemplated the difference [...]
[...] brings me to the topic of thrifting – I had asked in my last post about the ways that I – or you – use clothing or style as a means of resistance. And [...]
This prompted a blog post from me too, but since I dislike blog whoring, I’ll just copy the more relevant parts here ;)
I was somewhat disappointed with the article – they could have taken it to much more interesting places. You pulled out an interesting implied angle.
Even if people do not set out to do that – others will still read those messages into our clothing. And that will happen even if you don’t hold strong political opinions. Our appearance provokes assumptions about our social belonging, education, professionalism, and so on. Maddening, yes. Unfair, too. But since it is a given, isn’t it better to consciously control that process?
The NYT article also reminded me of an interesting book. If you look up Russia – Women – Culture, ed. by Goscilo and Holmgren on Google books, you can read a preview. I found the chapter on “Female Fashion, Soviet Style” fascinating, especially the discussion on the significance of rigid rules of style “for official surveillance of the individual”, the expression of an authoritarian political culture in social dicta on physical appearance and reactions to that. Do we want to play around with that in different contexts? :)
Um, figures that I forget to add my details to my comment. LOL.
Where was that photo taken? The place looks gorgeous. You, too.
Fascinating post. But oh, wow, the incredible photos! Where are you? I don’t know much about snow . . are you at a beach or something?
@Audrey’s Wardrobe – thanks for the great points, I’m about to go look for your more in depth post on your blog. I agree, the NYT article was a teaser, just long enough to get me excited about the topic but not enough to satisfy my curiosity about Mahler and her work. Oh, and thanks so much for the book tip, I’m going to go track that down, it sounds great!
@Nadine and All Women Stalker – this graffiti wall is a spot I often walk by but there are usually too many people around for me to take pictures. But on this particularly snowy day, there was no one around, so I could unabashedly photograph myself. I think Jentine of My Edit once put it really well when she said something about style bloggers and graffiti walls – we flock to them like moths to a light bulb ;)
S
Love the purple and mustard color combo! the scarf has such a cute print too!
http://www.thejoyoffashion.blogspot.com